|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 170'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]|
|FA:||Tim Fitzgerald and Bob Korte (June '66)|
|Submitted By:||Bryan G on Feb 20, 2013|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Tiny Tim||Add Comment|
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By Osprey Overhang
Jun 14, 2016
Pitch 1) After passing the second bolt you can clip one of anchor bolts from the route directly to the right of Tiny Tim (Mothballed) with a long runner. Before reaching the chains there is a bomber horizontal finger crack to place a cam into.
Pitch 2) Climbing in a straight line between the belay and the first bolt will yield a couple of small stopper placements in two of the vertical seams.
Since the end is seldom told…
Pitch 3) I do not agree with the Reid guide for the remainder of the route. The first 2/3 of the pitch 3 is dirty. Climbing left off of the belay, up, then arching back right is the cleanest path. Any pro you find in this section will be tiny. The rock quality cleans up over last 1/3 of the pitch. As soon as you can see the double arches aim for the right hand side. This section is way run out, but the climbing is low angle over huge cup shaped features that are actually like steps. You can aim for the arch and protect it if you feel you need it. Belay below and just left of where the two arches meet. Belay takes #1.75 - #4 friends, maybe even larger.
Pitch 4) This is a cool pitch. Step up onto the bottom arch and pull over the top arch with solid holds. Then pick a line to the top. The rock here is amazingly solid, clean, smooth yet with friction, and colorful. The slab climbing is like topping out on domes in the high country, but over indented cups (much like sun cups in low angle snow fields) instead of knobs. Pro is available around the belay at the start, and some of the indented cups may be in-cut enough at the lip to sling a thin cord over. Belay in the grass, at a small rock band, in a single crack with #1.5 - #2 friends. Walk off to the right and up to the Sunnyside Bench trail.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Sep 19, 2016
|When this route was put up in the 60's there were no bolts on the climb, but they did have pitons. When I did it in the mid-70's we weren't using pins so it was all natural pro. The problem was that there wasn't any natural pro so it was undoubtedly X-rated. Times change.|