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Tiny Dancer 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bob Broilo, most likely
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Apr 10, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Bob's Route (a.k.a Tiny Dancer)


The crux is above the third bolt. Scary because another bolt seems appropriate.


The climb is the leftmost route on the crag. The very shiny plated hardware has not been painted (not really good).


3 bolts to a bolt anchor (no chains)

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By Bob Broilo
From: Socorro, NM
5 days ago

Please add another bolt if you want, and rename it or whatever. This route is not the best and was climbed and fun in it's current state but super short and never really finished, e.g. no paint or chains, as you mention. It was just the first of a few envisioned and top-roped in that alcove, but I moved away before I could equip them (to the right, which it looks like someone finally put bolts, thanks!). I'm surprised to hear that people feel the crux to be above the third bolt, because we thought that was the easiest part of the route, hence no fourth bolt because it felt squeezed and excessive? But whatever, if you feel strongly about it add one or someday I'll get back to spook and put the finishing touches.

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