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Tinos Island

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Exomvourgo 

Tinos Island Rock Climbing 


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Location: 37.57686, 25.16767 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: WAGbag, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Brennan on Oct 24, 2015
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Description 

Rustic, obscure, well-bolted granite sport climbing in the the Cyclades!

Expect to structure your climbing days around the wind, which generally comes from the North.

Tinos is a pastoral island known primarily for its important pilgrimage sites so don't expect to see Western 'active tourists.' Climbing on Tinos is not very popular (yet) and as a result some of the routes will look a little disused. There is a thriving community of lichen that has taken up residence on some of the easy slabs. Good samaritans and skittish climbers interested in climbing on Tinos might want to bring a wire brush to tidy things up.

Steeper climbs in sectors 5, 6, and 9 will be cleaner (although may be windy).

Most routes feature two off-set gym style quick clips at the top. If you plan on top-roping the routes please do so from your own gear.

A 70m rope, 15 quick draws, and three or four alpine draws will get you up all of the routes on Xombourgo as of this writing. Bring extendable draws, some bolt placements will leave you scratching your head. Expect bolts to be very closely spaced -- watch out for z-clipping! Sector 5 has some multipitch opportunities. There are some cracks that look like they would go on gear but I did not explore these possibilities.

There are no climbing shops or guide services on Tinos. There is no mountain rescue on Tinos. Definitive healthcare is located 5 hours away (by boat or helicopter) in Athens. Be aware that adverse weather will effect ferry traffic.

Spring, Summer, and Autumn are probably the best times to climb on Tinos. Winter can bring snow and high winds. By mid-October services in the smaller villages are nonexistant and the weather is hit-or-miss. Many restaurants and taverns also stop serving their full menu.

As you explore Tinos, I recommend keeping a pair of shoes and some chalk in your car (or on your scooter...) because there is some amazing bouldering around especially at Volax and Livada Bay.

Exploring Tinos is an adventure. Have fun and poke around. The locals are warm and welcoming, the island is beautiful and the climbing is worthwhile. The first ascent opportunities will make your head spin.

Finally, I'd like to note that I did not bolt these climbs and that I'd be happy to turn this page over to the people who did all the hard work in developing this lovely addition to the Greek climbing culture. I am only going to add routes and comment on things for which I have first-hand knowledge.

Getting There 

Ferry from Piraeus (Athens) or from neighboring islands (Syros, Mykonos).

Also accessible from Kos if you're lucky enough to find yourself in Kalymnos. Expect to transfer in Syros and possibly spend the night depending on your timetable.

The cleanest climbing is on the east side of the south-west facing massif. Approach this zone from the church in Tripotamos. Head west past the church (keeping the church on your left) and you'll see a tin sign pop-riveted to the rock wall for the footpath to Xombourgo (pronounced Somo-vourgo and translated to "ancient town"). You will continue past stone walled cow pens. Resist the urge to turn left towards the massif until you cross a black irrigation tube. You will notice quite a wide path from here switchbacking upwards to some granite flakes peeking out of the ground and you will see another footpath sign riveted to a rock flake. The approach meanders on easy terrain towards the mountain. I would recommend close-toed shoes and pants as there is quite a lot of stinging nettle and other plants of the prickly variety.

Approach from outside the town hall in Xinara (pronounced Kinara) for the West sectors. The sectors closer to Xinara are often windy and were covered in a mat of lichen as of Autumn 2015.

Climbing Season

For the Greece area.

Weather station 12.5 miles from here


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