REI Community
Secret Garden
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha S 
Bees in the Trap S 
Cock to the Rock S 
Controlled Demolition S 
Flashback T 
Fuzzy Side Up T 
Gettin Woolly S 
Going Away Party S 
Guns n' Beer T 
Heavy Flow T 
Hippie Lip Balm S 
Leech Line T 
Linear Regression S 
Little T S 
Little Wing S 
Nachos, Lemonheads, My Dad's Boat S 
Nilbog Night Life S 
Red Devil S 
Rememberbu S S 
Sloppy Seconds S 
So What? S 
Spork T 
Stinky Johnny's S 
Tinkerbell's Panties T 
You Can't Piss on Hospitality S 

Tinkerbell's Panties 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dustin Stephens, Jeff Kayse in 2013
Page Views: 332
Submitted By: EthanC on May 26, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tinkerbell's Panties as seen from the ground


Great route to practice your hand and foot jams. Crux is about a third of the way up as the crack flares open and out. Sink those feet and grunt and pretty soon you'll find your way to the top.


Right of the dihedral cracks starting atop a large arrowhead shaped boulder.


Solid pro the whole way, mostly hands with a couple small placements. A number 4 can be nice at the crux but is certainly not necessary.

Comments on Tinkerbell's Panties Add Comment
Show which comments
By JillianWeller
Dec 17, 2015

That #4 felt pretty necessary
By tyleralgeo
Mar 28, 2016

We found the crux much better after the crack was swept of all the debris - there is a finger crack at the base of the big flaring section. Generally the upper section was much more enjoyable after a cleaning. #5 is great for protecting that flared crack but might get in the way if you place it overhead.
By JackCrockett
Sep 12, 2016

I don't think I used my #4. It can be done without one with some creativity. I know I had wished I had brought some more of my smaller (<= .5) cams as there were more placements for them than I would have expected.

Short but fun.

3 star climb, 5 star belay spot.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About