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Orange Crush
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Tinkerbell 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 780
Submitted By: SmithBro on Mar 1, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

I climbed Purple Microdot thrugh the crux, then traversed the lip of the roof to the left to eye bolts. Clip a knot below 2 bolts, securing yourself, then pull the rope thrugh to backclean for a smooth run. Get back on belay, then head up. The holds get bigger as the roof steepens, passing the duck's bill, then a crack to the top.

Location 

Right side

Protection 

Many draws


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 28, 2013

OK, who has done this route lately? I bet it has some big spider webs on it now. It is well worth getting on, if you like steep climbing at the top of the cliff. I know I do!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 2, 2017

Just tried this thing yesterday as well as it's brother to the left (Peter Pan). I found Tink to pack considerably more punch. Honestly I still need to figure out a few moves. Really interesting climbing that gets extremely steep up top.
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Aug 7, 2017
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I did this one last season. Really fun and pretty hard for the grade, crux right at the anchors. There was a fixed nut at the top when I did it.

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