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Tin Tangle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,986
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Nov 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Aaron Parker on Tin Tangle.

Description 

This route sends solid rock, but the bolt spacings are a little intimidating. At the first bolt, climb up and right, then climb up the right side of the blocky spine. At the spine's top, step left and join Do it Again to the top-chains.

Location 

Start on the downhill side. There is a large right-tending slabby staircase, right of Giant's Staircase.

Protection 

5 bolts. Steel biners on the anchors. As always, if doing multiple laps on a route, please use your own draws, then lower off the fixed biners when done.


Photos of Tin Tangle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Red rope is on Tin Tangle. Blue rope is on Oz
BETA PHOTO: Red rope is on Tin Tangle. Blue rope is on Oz

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By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

All 5 bolts have been replaced with new SS 1/2" bolts and hangers on 10/8/14.
By das1405
From: Portland
Apr 11, 2016

this route can be used to get to the top! A bolt provides some protection for the easy scramble above the anchors to get to the 2nd belay station for Giants Staircase. then its 2 more QD's to get to the top. Optionally you can skip belay station and just climb to top. There is a top belay anchor point on top of dome. the repel from the top is a lot of fun. We used a 70m but seemed like you could accomplish all this with 60m no problem. This option requires 11 QD's (10 if you don't clip the first anchor)
By Mitch Jacky
From: Portland, OR
May 9, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A very fun route! Good to get on a little slab every now and again! For extra adrenaline, I ran out the section underneath the "prow". A long sling is needed to reduce some drag there, but honestly it isn't too far from the top.

I saw that there was an easy top out but I didn't bring enough draws :(

Next time!

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