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Ten Minute Spire
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Original Route T 
Times Up T 

Times Up 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Burcham/Newman
Season: Fall, Summer, Spring
Page Views: 90
Submitted By: Bill Lundeen on Sep 20, 2016

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Description 

P1: Climb past 5 bolts up and slightly right on the NW side of Ten Minute Spire. 5.9 70'
P2: Step out up & right off belay into thin finger crack that quickly widens to off-fingers (crux). Jam/lieback crux to thin hands to good hands to final moves at exciting roof. 5.10+ 70'
DESCENT: One 80' rap down original route on north side of spire

Location 

See approach for Original Route. Move around to NW side and look for bolt line

Protection 

draws, nuts, singles of cams 1/2" to 3", doubles of .5, .75, and #1 Camalot.


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By Bill Lundeen
From: Lee Vining, CA
Sep 22, 2016

Very fun route! First pitch is classic Sedona 5.9 face climbing; second is very clean fingers to hands crack climbing with an airy roof finish. Easy approach, easy to find, good climbing. Started the route at 3 pm and was out by 5:30. Great for a short warm afternoon. Shady till 4pm.

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