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BETA PHOTO: Timeless
The length, exposure, rock quality, and movement of this climb make it a Chugach classic. Start in the gully below the belay ledge nook for Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning. Climb a face-arete for five bolts (careful: the nut on the fifth bolt is loose and needs to be tightened) to a crack. Ascend the crack (probably the crux of the route) with gear to a prominent rock ledge. Follow the angled ledge up and to the left. There's another bolt at the left end of the ledge; it's ~35m to this point. Two options from here: build an anchor using the bolt and a thin crack to its right (small cam and medium stopper), or clip the bolt and continue up passing two more bolts (and cracks that can be used to reduce runout) then move right to a nice ledge with two bolt anchor. The ledge with the two bolt anchor is a much more comfortable belay spot for pitch two, but it's about 40-45m from the ground and there will be some rope drag finishing the first pitch (use extended draws accordingly). However, this will reduce rope drag on pitch two. From the two bolt anchor, ascend the crack system with gear to the top of the tower. The top of the tower is large and flat with another two bolt anchor (which should be replaced soon). Walk-off recommended (double-rope rappel possible).
Just down gully from the nook that hosts Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning.
8 bolts, gear to 3" (can be done with gear to 2"), 2 bolt anchors for both pitches (or 1 bolt and gear anchor for pitch one)
BETA PHOTO: Timeless pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Upper 2/3 of Timeless
BETA PHOTO: Upper pitch one of Timeless, showing both anchor/b...
Timeless 5.9+ worth the hike for obvious reasons.
Jess nearing the Timeless pitch 1 two bolt anchor
Jess nearing the top of Timeless pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Timeless pitch 1 bolt + gear anchor option
BETA PHOTO: Timeless pitch 2 crack
Jess face-arete climbing on pitch 1 of Timeless
By Jay Swamidass
From: Anchorage, AK
Jul 6, 2016
As you can probably tell by the photos, this thing is extremely lichen-y. That said, it's still the best route I've done in the Anchorage area! Amazing location, relatively solid rock(*), fun climbing, and a great view from the summit. Make the (easy and scenic) hike out there and climb it!
(*)The finishing blocks at the very end of the crack on pitch two are loose. Use extreme caution when mantling up on to the summit. It may not take more than one more person yarding on one of them for it to pop. This could have disastrous consequences for both climber and belayer directly below...