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The Wedge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden T 
Book of Easy Learning T 
Fisticuffs T 
Ghost of a Smile S 
Leggo My Ego S 
Nineveh T 
Not of this State S 
Timeless T 
Wisdom T 

Timeless 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Grant Walker, Eric Sloan, '96
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Mat Brunton on Jul 22, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Timeless

Description 

The length, exposure, rock quality, and movement of this climb make it a Chugach classic. Start in the gully below the belay ledge nook for Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning. Climb a face-arete for five bolts (careful: the nut on the fifth bolt is loose and needs to be tightened) to a crack. Ascend the crack (probably the crux of the route) with gear to a prominent rock ledge. Follow the angled ledge up and to the left. There's another bolt at the left end of the ledge; it's ~35m to this point. Two options from here: build an anchor using the bolt and a thin crack to its right (small cam and medium stopper), or clip the bolt and continue up passing two more bolts (and cracks that can be used to reduce runout) then move right to a nice ledge with two bolt anchor. The ledge with the two bolt anchor is a much more comfortable belay spot for pitch two, but it's about 40-45m from the ground and there will be some rope drag finishing the first pitch (use extended draws accordingly). However, this will reduce rope drag on pitch two. From the two bolt anchor, ascend the crack system with gear to the top of the tower. The top of the tower is large and flat with another two bolt anchor (which should be replaced soon). Walk-off recommended (double-rope rappel possible).

Location 

Just down gully from the nook that hosts Wisdom and Book of Easy Learning.

Protection 

8 bolts, gear to 3" (can be done with gear to 2"), 2 bolt anchors for both pitches (or 1 bolt and gear anchor for pitch one)


Photos of Timeless Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Timeless pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Timeless pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper 2/3 of Timeless
BETA PHOTO: Upper 2/3 of Timeless
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper pitch one of Timeless, showing both anchor/b...
BETA PHOTO: Upper pitch one of Timeless, showing both anchor/b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Timeless 5.9+ worth the hike for obvious reasons.
Timeless 5.9+ worth the hike for obvious reasons.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mat on pitch 2
Mat on pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Jess nearing the Timeless pitch 1 two bolt anchor
Jess nearing the Timeless pitch 1 two bolt anchor
Rock Climbing Photo: Jess nearing the top of Timeless pitch 2
Jess nearing the top of Timeless pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Timeless pitch 1 bolt + gear anchor option
BETA PHOTO: Timeless pitch 1 bolt + gear anchor option
Rock Climbing Photo: Timeless pitch 2 crack
BETA PHOTO: Timeless pitch 2 crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Jess face-arete climbing on pitch 1 of Timeless
Jess face-arete climbing on pitch 1 of Timeless
Rock Climbing Photo: Timeless
BETA PHOTO: Timeless
Rock Climbing Photo: Timeless
BETA PHOTO: Timeless

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