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A Brief History of Time T 
Broken Dreams 
Disillusioned Reality  T 
Disillusioned Reality free variation  T 
Down, Not Out 
Dreamscape S 
Dry Ice S 
Flying Vee T,TR 
Gully Washer S 
Jake's Problem 
Journey to Ixtlan S 
Long Lost Dreams 
Phantasmagoria T,S 
Red Limit S 
Route between Timeless and Gully Washer S 
Sea of Dreams S 
Simone Has Dreams TR 
Soul on Ice S 
Stained Glass S 
Tales of Power S 
Timeless S 
Unknown between Brief History & Timeless S 
Wet Dreams S 
Whippers in Time S 
Wrinkled Glass T 
Wrinkles in Time T 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 327
Submitted By: Aeon Aki on Aug 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Brian near the start.

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Begin at the base of A Brief History of Time, but climb up and right in a scoop to the top of a semi-detached pillar. From there, follow the bolts up and right making several tricky slab moves. A nice addition to the wall.

This is the FOURTH sport climb down from the top, right-most climb:
Highest (most right), with the bolt on the lip of a small overhang: Wet Dreams
Nearly the same start: Gully Washer
20' below them, at the big pine tree, the crap climb up the trough with high first bolt: Route between Timeless and Gully Washer
20' farther down, this route.

Anyone have the name and first ascent info?


8? bolts. 10-12 quickdraws.

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By Wanderinfree Chrislip
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2009

Not sure if this is the same route I went up--not in the guidebooks yet. But the crux around bolt 6 in the black, water streaked pod felt way harder than 10.a. But I'm not a fan of slab, so who knows.
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought that this climb was awkward also. The moves that made it close to 10a were not even in line with the bolts and I felt like I was off route half the time. Probably will not repeat this climb again.
By cLohse
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2010

This route is probably about right at 9+. IMHO, it's the move past the first bolt, which is a high step off a good right foot on granular, frictious crimps which is the crux. Stand that sucker up and you're good to go.

Also, it's listed in the guidebook as Timeless.
By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
Jul 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed this route today on my first visit to the area. Eight bolts on the route, not ten as the guidebook states. I thought the crux was at about bolt 6, where the route steepens and handholds disappear. Had to step right into a scoop and reach back left to clip, then up. No trouble down low. Fun route, good rock. I,d do it again, even if just to see if I could stay more in line with the bolts.
By Paul Brooks
From: Boulder
Jul 9, 2011

10ab. Good climbing although not too obvious. Guidebooks are a little hard to follow in this area
By Chip Loomis
Apr 8, 2012

Does somebody have a picture of this climb? The current routes on the wall are not matching quite matching with Mountain Project.
By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Jul 4, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The crux around the 5-6th bolts is quite hard. It's only 2-3 moves, but I think solid 5.10, maybe even 10+ by local standards. I think many people are doing the wrong route - this one is trivial for the first couple bolts.
By Greg Barnes
Jul 25, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I agree with Nick. This has very delicate smeary stemming, Joshua Tree 5.10b or even c, only a few moves but a surprise if you're expecting 5.9-ish climbing. Fun!
By John Johnson
Jul 18, 2017
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I agree with Nick and Greg on this one. Just climbed this route a few days ago. It looks pretty straightforward from the ground, but the crux is pretty tricky. There doesn't really seem to be a direct route up the bolts at the crux, you either go left to a bulgy flake (maybe a 5.10b or 5.10c move, super stretched out), or move farther right. Either way, you're setting yourself up for a big lead swing fall. There's no way the crux move was 5.10a.

The 2012 guidebook only shows 13 routes on this wall and shows gully washer in the position of these climbs, so I really wasn't totally sure what I was getting on.

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