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The Dregs
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Anti-Clique Crack T 
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Time Lapse 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: A. Whitmore, Z. Drobnik
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Andrew M Whitmore on Sep 28, 2014

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Description 

A unique (even for the Gally) route. Climb the bouldery slabs to the left of "Anti-Clique Crack" and beneath the horizontal roof. Place a small tcu behind a big pink ear or just climb up a few moves to multiple good horizontal gear placements. Follow steep features and good gear to the left of the roof. Two bolts protect a dynamic face crux. Gain a friction stance with the second bolt at your left hip. A friction traverse leads to the right above the lip of the roof and gains a hard to see 1/2" crack. Follow this moderate crack to the chains.

An excellent choice for a hot day, only sees a couple hours of sunlight in the morning. Great exposure and position with good views into the rest of the Gally. A nice hike too, under 60 minutes depending on fitness.

Location 

Backside of the Dregs. Go all the way to the top of the southside of the main crag. The chains for "Indian Leg-Wrestling" are off to the west. Descend a faint trail through steep/thick lodgepole pine for 150'. Follow the toe of the rock buttress back to the south crossing some large gneiss slabs. "Time Lapse" is farthest south (left) starting about 30' left of "Anti-Clique Crack". Rappel.

Protection 

1/4"-2". Two bolts. Quick-links and biners on top (as of 2014)


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