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Gorilla My Dreams S 
Timberjack T 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

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Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Timberjack follows the flakes just left of center ...

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This is an excellent and varied pitch. Some face climbing, laybacks, and even some hand crack.

In my opinion, this route rivals Aries and Mourning Star as one of the best(i.e. only) 5.8's at index.


Just left of gorilla my dreams



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By Addict
Oct 11, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

For a rack, take a set of cams to a #6 friend.

The upper crack is much easier to layback than thrutch. Probably 10a as an offwidth.

Those 2 bolts should be chopped as there are perfect gear placements right next to them.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Jul 15, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agreed with the bolts comment. I climbed the upper part as an offwidth and I didn't think it was too bad. Definitely hard for grade (even for index).
By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think about every pitch on aries is harder. The largest piece I placed was a 4 four friend. Good but not that good.
By ChrisJoosse
Nov 9, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

When I did this route, the anchors had a cordolette left in place that someone had used to rap off- if I'd had a quicklink or a rap ring I'd have donated it to the cause, but wasn't prepared at the time.

If I'd had a wider piece than a #3 C4, I'd have used it at the top where the crack goes from fistjam to off-width.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 23, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this is a great 5.8 A #5 Camalot is fine for top, but if you are scared of OW a #6 is better. I removed the cordolette when I replaced the old anchor with new SS bolts in 2012.
By Douglas T
Sep 1, 2013

Fun climb and a good warm up before hopping onto Gorilla My Dreams. The final moves are way easier as a lieback. Bolt comment: I agree that with the common availability of #5 size cams, the upper bolt no longer serves a purpose. The first bolt is next to a crack that is part of a hollow, thin and detaching flake. That flake, used as a hold, is trustworthy as far as I can tell. Used as a point of protection, sketchy. The first bolt is good one to clip.

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