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Twin Owls
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Rather Fight Than Switch T 
Senseless Meaning T,TR 
Sunset Arete T,TR 
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Tighter Squeeze T 
Tilted Mitten T 
TR Flake-Right side start of W. Owl Direct T 
True American Pinch 
Twister T 
West Chimney T 
West Owl Direct (aka Silly Putty) T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Tilted Mitten 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 121
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Inside the chimney on P3.

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


This is an interesting climb on the Lower Owls, with a very short approach. Good for those who enjoy (or want to get some mileage on) wide cracks and chimneys, but at a moderate grade. The mitten is a large, leaning block midway up the right side of the Lower Owls. Take the approach trail to the Lower Twin Owls trail. The route starts a little uphill from the lowest point of the cliff.

P1. 3 possibilities: a) take a blackened inset, with a finger crack, which leads to a short squeeze chimney, and continue more easily to a ledge below a wide crack (5.9); b) take a hand crack just left, and continue up an easy groove to the same belay (5.7); c) start further left in the easy groove.

P2. Climb the wide crack, go up the right side of the mitten, and tunnel through the roof at its top; belay just above (5.8).

P3. Walk over right, then climb a square cut, right-leaning chimney with good hand-sized protection. Turn the [weird] roof at its top, and belay beneath Twin Owls (5.7).

Climb a route on that rock, or descend right and scramble around to the base.


Standard rack to a #4 Friend; two to sew it up.

Photos of Tilted Mitten Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Redosh on P3.  Use that left hand crack to ma...
Doug Redosh on P3. Use that left hand crack to ma...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mitten summit, near the top of P2.
Mitten summit, near the top of P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Doug Redosh on P1 c.
Doug Redosh on P1 c.

Comments on Tilted Mitten Add Comment
Show which comments
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 11, 2007

P2 is quite fun. For cluckers like me, a #4.5 Camalot & 2 #4 Camalots (old style) are nice. Near the top of P2, there is a rope pinching crack. A red Alien above it on the right can help keep the rope out of the trouble. Addendum: wires, singles to #0.75 + doubles #1 to #4 Camalot + #4.5 Camalot for cluckers.
By Meredith DB
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 15, 2008

In my opinion, this is a great climb - all the pitches are fun, the climbing is interesting and varied. The chimney on the last pitch is amazing. We did the 7 variation on the first pitch and enjoyed it.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 25, 2011

For the middle start, a single rack to #4 C4 and dbl in 2-3 range is plenty of gear. I didn't find a need for a #5 C4. The middle first pitch is kind of crappy after the first 20ft, but P2/3 are worth doing once.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 14, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good climb, and if linked up into Wolf's Tooth, it would be a great tour of the Owls. We climbed a variation of P2. Starting on P1c, in the above description, we belayed below an overhanging wall/short, left-facing corner. We took this corner to a low angle area full of bushes and a dead tree (the dead tree is a good landmark to belay below) and belayed below a hand crack through an overlap. We climbed the handcrack through the overlap to a large alcove, chimneyed up to a thin l-facing corner, and belayed at the top of the mitten. We called it "Jilted Kitten" and rated it 5.6. It is good and worth doing. The 3rd pitch is awesome and a bit soft for Lumpy 5.8.

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