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Glacier Point Apron - Left
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A Mother's Lament T 
Cow-Center Route, The T 
Cow-Left Side, The T 
Cow-Right Side, The T 
Grack - Center, The T 
Grack - Left Side, The T 
Grack Wrong T 
Grack, Marginal, The T 
Grack, Right Side, The T 
Hoppy's Favorite T 
Tightrope T 
Valley Hizeman T 

Tightrope 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Verne Clevenger, Tom Carter, et. al. 1975
Page Views: 640
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 25, 2014

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  • Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron MORE INFO >>>
  • Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is the archetypal Apron route. Hard climbing and very bold runouts. It is possible to hit the ground from 300' up if you blow the final moves to the belay at the top of pitch 2. The hardest moves are found on the fifth pitch, but they are reasonably well-protected and are more like a boulder problem.

    Pitch 1(5.9) - climb past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

    Pitch 2(5.8) - basically no pro with some delicate friction for the last 50' to a two-bolt belay. Don't fall.

    Pitch 3(5.10b) - head straight up 25' on friction to a bolt then traverse right to a second bolt. Head up past a third bolt to a two-bolt belay.

    Pitch 4(5.9) - head up and slightly left past a bolt and several small corners to a two-bolt belay.

    Pitch 5(5.11b) - climb past 3 bolts and the bouldery crux to a two-bolt belay.

    Pitch 6(5.10c) - a short pitch past two bolts to a two-bolt belay.

    Pitch 7(5.11) - climb down and left at the start then up and left past three bolts to the belay. The belay might still be a single, 1/4" bolt. Act accordingly.

    Location 

    The route starts about 50-100 feet left of the Cow. Rappel the route with two 50M ropes. Bring slings to back up the anchors and cut out the old tat.

    Protection 

    Bolts protect most of the route, but bring a rack of stoppers and cams up to 2" just in case.


    Comments on Tightrope Add Comment
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    By john strand
    From: southern colo
    Dec 26, 2015

    I guess you could blow it on P2...but then again you don't belong on the climb if you do.

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