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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Mushial
Page Views: 1,545
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Dec 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The clip after the crux. My right hand is on the s...


Tightrope climbs the line of bolts just left of Ginseng. The crux, coming about two thirds of the way up, is quite a memorable one. Despite my efforts to find alternate beta, the move boils down to a huge dyno. With a very thin left crimp, you set up and throw and hit a sloper at full extension. Holding the outward swing is the most difficult part. It's just so easy to let go of that small crimp, but that's really the only thing holding you in.

If the climbing leading up to the crux was trivial, I'd call this an average route. Since the moves before the crux are still hard, maybe about 12a, and since the crux move is so spectacular, I call this a tough and very fulfilling 12d.


9 bolts

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By corson
From: Northport, Me.
Mar 21, 2009

OOOOOH....and its sooooooo tempting to grab that draw!!!!!!
By Mike Veazey
From: Exeter, NH
Apr 23, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

FA: Eric Mushial
By Mike Lambert
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Height dependent but quality.
By AlecM
From: Fredericton
Jul 27, 2015

Can be done without dyno-ing and using the thin crimps and underclings before the lip.

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