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Spring Wall
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Tiger's Eye S 

Tiger's Eye 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Euan Cameron and Julie Wright, 16th August 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 683
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Aug 17, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Spring Wall main slab topo

Description 

Start with hands on the ledge at 6 feet. Get standing on this ledge and clip the first bolt. Pass the first and second bolts via very thins moves and the use of one or two micro flakes.

After bolts 3 and 4 the climbing gets more sustained and much better. As the slab steepens continue directly up the wall above with engaging and enjoyable moves to the crux sequence to gain the good sized flake at the top of this steep section.

With the large flake at hand continue more easily up the slab above to the anchors.

Location 

Left side of the main wall

Protection 

9 bolts, double ring anchor


Photos of Tiger's Eye Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Main wall central Topo
BETA PHOTO: Main wall central Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Passed the first crux on Tiger's Eye
Passed the first crux on Tiger's Eye
Rock Climbing Photo: Eyeing the crux sequence on the first ascent of Ti...
Eyeing the crux sequence on the first ascent of Ti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid crux on the first ascent of Tiger's Eye, 5.10c
Mid crux on the first ascent of Tiger's Eye, 5.10c
Rock Climbing Photo: Tiger's Eye
Tiger's Eye

Comments on Tiger's Eye Add Comment
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By sneville
Sep 5, 2010

Maybe I was having a bad day but this felt harder than full yellow jacket (11a) route. After standing up and clipping the first bolt it felt really hard getting to the second bolt no feet and no good holds. Maybe I missed something. Higher up also felt 11 ish. Nice rock and nice location good to get away from the crowds.
sean
By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Aug 20, 2012

Felt much harder than 10c
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Aug 22, 2012

General consensus is that it is harder - what grade would you give it?
By Connor Newman
From: Reno, NV
Aug 24, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I would definitely agree that its harder than 10c, I would say mid 5.11. Although it is not sustained at that grade, just one sequence.
By kenr
Aug 3, 2015

We set up Top-Rope from the two-bolt top anchor. We reached that anchor by scrambing up around the Right (west) side of cliff. Glad we had approach shoes with sticky climbing rubber. The top area is fairly slopy, so be careful of slipping off (and careful not to dislodge loose rocks + dirt).

Crux sequence seemed much harder than the rest of the climb. Not quite a "one move wonder", but not real sustained either.
By BAd
Jun 28, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route that we worked on today. I guess we skipped the first crux by climbing just to the left on easy flakes. That blank wall to the right looked WAY harder than 10c. I finally figured out the upper crux on TR. By stepping to the right as the first ascentionist seems to be doing in the photo, I found edges that kept it in the 10c-ish range, maybe a tad harder but not 11, at least for my 6'4" frame. My wife worked the upper wall directly--stout! I'll be back for a clean lead.

Okay, went back. Choked again. I think that upper crux is prolly 11-ish. Gotta get the gumption to make that critical clip, dang it. Love the moves.
By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Jul 14, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

ive seen a few friends take the whip onto the slab and i joined them as well. great pitch. heads up.
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jul 15, 2016

good to see people enjoying it as much as we did when we put it up.