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(09) The Far Side II
Routes Sorted
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Blonde Ambition S 
Checkers S 
Chess S 
Don't Miss Out S 
Extra Cheese S 
Fine Line S 
Hangman S 
Knee Jerk Reaction S 
Lonesome Dove S 
Main Line T 
Patchwork S 
Pizza Stone S 
Pussy Whipped S 
Settled Science S 
Sinister Base S 
Take 'n Bake S 
Tiger by the Tail S 
Watch Out For That Tree S 

Tiger by the Tail 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bryan Pletta, Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,491
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Nov 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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On the final move of the route.

Description 

Go up the short face and follow the left-leaning corner system (the first 4 bolts are shared with Pussy Whipped). Then move right onto the steep crux headwall past the final 2 bolts.

Previously described by Moret (2003) in the online guide, and by Jackson (2006:283-284).

Location 

Shares the start with Pussy Whipped.
Located between Don't Miss Out and Sinister Base.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Tiger by the Tail Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tiger by the Tail (5.9+), The Far Side II, Palomas...
BETA PHOTO: Tiger by the Tail (5.9+), The Far Side II, Palomas...

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By Lee H
From: Albuqueruqe,NM
Apr 8, 2015

The headwall is not at all obvious (and definitely harder than Lonesome Dove). I couldn't figure it out, so I went right and used the crack.

edit: I went back and found a few pretty big crimps just left of the crack on the right that made it better. I'd still say a bit harder than lonesome dove. Fun route, and the move from pussy whipped to the tiger by the tail face isn't that difficult, but it is exciting.

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