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Unsorted Routes:

Tierra Del Fuego 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Thor Kieser
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,954
Submitted By: Thor Kieser on May 22, 2005

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Very sustained and quality climbing with multiple cruxes make Tierra Del Fuego one of the best 5.11s on The Little Eiger.

The route lies between Natural Selection and Bush Administration. Climb low-angle slab past two clips. The wall steepens at the third bolt. The next four clips are possibly the technical crux. Fire through and climb 5.10 above and then 5.9. The wall steepens again, climb past three bolts on sustained 5.11 to the anchor. Pump left past the last bolt and then crimp up and right to a final crimp under the anchor

The route might be a letter grade harder. I need a few climbers to get on it and confirm the rating. I rehearsed it while establishing so when I sent it I knew every move.

With the placement of the anchors on Tierra Del Fuego, it is now possible to get off Natural Selection and/or Bush Administration without complication for those with a 50-meter rope.

Gregg Purnell has added an extension that adds a bolt and ends at another anchor. This is 12 a/b.


11 bolts to the two-bolt anchor.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2013
Jun 11, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

11b sounds about right. The lower crux still needs to clean up a bit, a bit o' lichen. I think the real crux is clipping the anchors.
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I think 11b may be accurate. It's just about my limit and it spit me off pretty well. I hoped that the middle crux was the end of the hard climbing. However, clipping the chains proved over my head. I had WAY too much pump for the mental step it took. Good route though.
By gregg purnell
From: Rifle, CO
Jul 21, 2005

Now you can either finish the original route and call if 11b or you can now climb another 10 ft of crimpers with 1 bolt and lower off another set of anchors to make the climb 12a/b.
By gregg purnell
From: Rifle, CO
Jul 21, 2005

It's exactly 60 meters total.
By Kim Melnick
Jul 21, 2005

Thought this route seemed forced. Didn't seem like a very natural line. I think the rating is probably right, but the crux move to the anchors was what put it there. I haven't tried what Greg posted, but the moves I did seemed to be there just to get the rating up.
By Thor Kieser
Jul 23, 2005

I am compelled to defend Tierra Del Fuego. The route was [TR'd] first. I never felt it was contrived or forced. You climb [straight] up on steep rock through multiple cruxes. There is no wandering around to make it harder. The route is "in your face" [straight] up climbing. How is that contrived or forced? There are no broken ledges and the corners on the left do not help you avoid any cruxes. The last headwall climbs very nicely in my opinion, with a one digit pocket to a cross-over to a hard side -pull and a tricky clip of my last bolt.

I never felt that my last crimpy move was the crux. For me, the crux is at the final bolt where you start to move left. I feel the first crux is at least equal to the last.

The anchors were place where they are because I felt that the next section climbed too close to Bush Administration and became squeezed with Natural Selection as well. Bush Administration trends left at the top and Natural Selection moves right at its top.

Now that the last ten feet have been established, I feel that I should have gone ahead and installed it the first time. Believe me, I thought about it but decided not to squeeze it in.

So, now we have a climb with two 5.11 cruxes and a 5.12 crux and every crux has interesting and pumpy or delicate moves. Name another route on The Little Eiger equal to that! My compliments to Greg Purnell for his contribution. The additional 10 feet are super crimpy but very cool!

Now I will take down the original anchor and let the route become 12a/b. I leave it to Greg to rate his addition.

I have climbed many other routes in Clear Creek, and I'd say that at least 2/3rds of the routes I have climbed are less fun and more broken-up than Tierra Del Fuego (routes on High Wire for example). It's my opinion, and I'm sure others will disagree with me.

I still give Tierra Del Fuego three stars. You guys don't have to like it.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 23, 2005

Thor, I really enjoyed the route. In fact, everytime I'm up there now I have to do it cause it's such a cool route. I really like the movement of the climb, sidepulls, gastons, crimps get you feet up lean sideways, almost too cool. I suggest leave your anchors and that way I don't have to do the last moves all the time, it's pretty damn hard. Thanks for the route and all the hard work you're doing...
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 19, 2005

Greg's extension above the anchors (12a) is spectacular. Fantastic thin moves and solid clean stone. Good eye.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2005

The route is a classic of Clear Creek. It's one of the better 11s in the canyon. Thanks to Thor and Gregg for their work..
By Robbie the Dog
Aug 5, 2006

This climb was pretty fun. The good climbing outweighed the several rests/easy climbing interludes.

I was quite confused by the 12a extension...I was on the crimps at/below the anchors, but didn't see any other features for quite some time...and no chalk to help out a bad onsight-er like myself. I'd like to know where people went.
By kevin fox
From: parker
Jun 1, 2007

Thor! another great route.... Enjoyed tremendously. Made it through the first crux. It's the second crux that I need to work on. Will go up on Saturday and see if I can redpoint it. I'm just breaking into the .11 rating. Having a great time with your routes. Can't wait to try Tsunami of Charisma. Did you ever end up taking out the first anchors?
By Mikeco
From: Golden, CO
Jun 5, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

After doing this a couple of times, I feel this is a fine, technically sustained route. I did do the 12a/b finish and found it very thin and thoughtful. I found the body positions I needed to use seemed really improbable, but then I found myself somehow sticking up there when I fully committed. It's not a pure strength crux, because it comes down to focus, determination, and technique, not just raw power. You have to stay very "quiet" on the holds to get them to work for you.
By slim
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

One of the best 11s in Clear Creek? Gotta share that stuff you guys are smokin!.... What's with the last bolt before the first anchors, and the first anchors? It's like the climb is 10a with 11a clipping. Ugghh.
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 7, 2010

I felt like I was off-route on this one in several places. Maybe I still need to get used to the rock @ Clear Creek. The first bulge with sidepulls, etc, was really fun.
By DBarton
Apr 3, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

11c for sure, def much harder than an 11b. I have climbed this 2x now, and both times made me feel that this is harder than any other CC 11b. My 2 cents. (Lots of 2s in this post!)
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Yes, contrived. Because of the broken nature of the rock. It's not exactly straight up some slab, it's not exactly a steep, clean arete, it's not exactly a technical cross over then cross back on awkward, fun crimps 'n''s a mash of all that. Plus some crazy inconstancy in grade.

And it DOES wander around a little, this side of the bolts to that side of the bolts and back. AND the lower crux (THE crux?) apparently has beta left and right. (Or so says the chalk marks.)

Still. A very fun climb, well worth doing.

Which brings up two points. First, "contrived" here (or anywhere) need not mean a line unworthy of our attentions. It's definitely worth it. And two, for all of that: No line worth climbing needs defending. Ever.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Well I'll have to throw in my two cents here as well: I would agree that the finish of this route is contrived but not the entire line by any degree. The route actually felt very natural to me throughout the entire climb; it's when I got to the anchors that I felt forced to do 1 more hard move and stop in the middle of it to clip the chains.

To me, it seems more natural to clip the chains from the two jugs just below this move and then have the extension above that. Being 6', I'm actually able to do that with a stretch, and it definitely felt like the natural ending point for that section of climbing. Then the crimpy moves above naturally lead into the extension. As it is, I feel like I'm doing the first move on the extension just to clip the chains.

I would recommend moving the chains down a few feet, so you can clip from the jugs and then leave one of the current anchor bolts in for the extension above it.

And with all that being said, I thought it was a fun route and worth doing for sure.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 7, 2012

Shortly after Gregg installed his extension, I moved one of the anchor bolts to the left to be able to clip easier from the stance and moving it out of the fall line of the extension. Is it still difficult to clip? Would a longer chain help?
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Hey Darren, ya this is still a pretty reachy clip even for me from the jugs. I guess we could just add a few more links and drop it down for the shorties to clip, although you still would have to do the crimpy move in order to clip the other bolt. If it were up to me I would probably just move the whole anchor down and left two feet, and leave one of the current anchor bolts as the first bolt to the extension.
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
May 16, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Got on this yesterday and really enjoyed it. It felt like straight .11 to me, but I only got one attempt in. Maybe it'll feel a little softer now that I know the crux sequence. Lookin' forward to giving the extension a shot too.

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