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Sugarloaf
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Tier Pressure 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 420'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
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Page Views: 394
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Sep 15, 2014

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Psychotic friction.

Description 

The rightmost route on the face. The first pitch corner is the world's most perfect habitat for ferns and moss, or so it seems. Bring a stiff brush and wait for DRY weather if you want to climb this. The rest of the route, however you decide to do it (there are 4 ways to go - see the guidebook) is really good climbing.

Location 

See photo to locate the start. The 2 ft, triangular roof 7 ft up the corner is a good landmark, as is the coffee table-size flat rock just out from the base of the corner.

Protection 

Normal rack to 3". Bring at least one 4" cam if you plan on finishing on "variation 3". Rap the route with two 60m ropes.


Photos of Tier Pressure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the upper half of the first pitch corner. ...
This is the upper half of the first pitch corner. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P2
Looking down P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Tier Pressure.  Note the "footprints...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Tier Pressure. Note the "footprints...

Comments on Tier Pressure Add Comment
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By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Sep 16, 2014

This is considered by some to be the best route (in the grade, at least) at Sugarloaf, better than Quadrophenia and Hesitation. The first pitch is horribly overgrown (even though it's been cleaned many times in the past).

To more easily approach the upper pitches, start 25' left in a depression and climb horrible grunge up and right to a fixed anchor of the original route. This is the line of the original ascent. The upper climbing is totally worth it.