Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
The rightmost route on the face. The first pitch corner is the world's most perfect habitat for ferns and moss, or so it seems. Bring a stiff brush and wait for DRY weather if you want to climb this. The rest of the route, however you decide to do it (there are 4 ways to go - see the guidebook) is really good climbing.
See photo to locate the start. The 2 ft, triangular roof 7 ft up the corner is a good landmark, as is the coffee table-size flat rock just out from the base of the corner.
Normal rack to 3". Bring at least one 4" cam if you plan on finishing on "variation 3". Rap the route with two 60m ropes.
This is the upper half of the first pitch corner. ...
BETA PHOTO: Start of Tier Pressure. Note the "footprints...
By Jim Lawyer
Sep 16, 2014
This is considered by some to be the best route (in the grade, at least) at Sugarloaf, better than Quadrophenia and Hesitation. The first pitch is horribly overgrown (even though it's been cleaned many times in the past).
To more easily approach the upper pitches, start 25' left in a depression and climb horrible grunge up and right to a fixed anchor of the original route. This is the line of the original ascent. The upper climbing is totally worth it.