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Tide Me Over 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: CM, KF, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 865
Submitted By: Clay Mansfield on Jul 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Clay following the surprisingly good arete.


Tide Me Over is a direct start variation to the first pitch of the old aid line Prime Rib of Rurp. Rather than going up the original loose, poorly protected 5.8 chute, start out on the face, launching up into the steep horizontals on jugs. Good gear, a 5.10 pull, and traversing on hand rails leads to a rock-around-the-corner move at the base of the arete. The arete climbing is moderate with great position, and fun as hell.

2 bolt belay with biners for lowering/rapping.


Upper west face of Neptune, between Rapture and Cream of Belay.


Cams up to #3 BD, with microcams being pretty crucial.

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By Eric D
From: Gnarnia
Jul 18, 2013

Looks cool, but a one pitch route is not alpine climbing.
By Clay Mansfield
Jul 18, 2013

Eric, I agree, but it seems like it automatically puts that when I enter a route at the Reef. I didn't put alpine, but it still lists it as such. I think this has happened on other site contributions people have made on routes at the Reef. I've never really understood it.

I sent an admin a message, so hopefully it can be fixed.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 19, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Nice addition Clay! I think MP checks the "alpine" box by default in areas that are above a set elevation.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 23, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Wow - got on this climb today and was really impressed. Looking up from the ground it's hard to imagine how many jugs there are up there and that the pitch actually goes on gear. I liked that the climb also maintains the committing feeling of the reef as there are a couple of spots that you must commit over small gear.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 27, 2013

After the traverse right to the original route you must work way right to get a high piece in the corner. Three long slings will help reduce the drag and render the piece almost moot. I skipped it and found the arete pretty easy but very committing with no pro.
By Clay Mansfield
Aug 22, 2013

There is now another, lower bolt on the arete on the 2nd half of this pitch. This makes the climb more fun, way better for rope drag, and now means you won't smack something hard if you come off the arete. There are still a few committing moves to get to it though.

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