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Tick Fever 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FA: L. Wheeler & J. Newsome FFA: S. Hong & K. Budding
Page Views: 4,859
Submitted By: Louis Arevalo on Oct 13, 2004

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It is located on the left side of the wall and diangonals right. Start on a platform above the loose wash. Begin with pumpy tight hands switching to something like chimneying up through splitting cracks then swinging out on to the slabby finish. Gears up nicely. Super Fun!


Cams up to 3" with several small pieces, both nuts and tcu's work well.

Photos of Tick Fever Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fizzy leading Tick Fever while Tyler Pool belays.
Fizzy leading Tick Fever while Tyler Pool belays.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tick Fever: left most crack system!
BETA PHOTO: Tick Fever: left most crack system!
Rock Climbing Photo: Ken at the awesome throw-your-leg-over-the-flake f...
Ken at the awesome throw-your-leg-over-the-flake f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hong Wall

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 11, 2017
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 4, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route!!!Pick your rest spots on this route. I found one, there was another for sure. Very pumpy and consistent throughout.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 14, 2008

The best 11a in LCC by default. Still fun though.
By jeff newsom
Apr 25, 2008

As someone new to these pages, I was pleasantly surprised to see a route that Lynn Wheeler and I did many years ago has received such high praise.Wheels and I were going thru a "crack" phase back then ,spending many hours roaming up and down the canyon with binoculars,looking for crack climbs.I had spied this one and talked Wheels into going up and looking at what he felt was a scrapheap(and relatively speaking I guess it still is.) We did all the moves except the crux, free.The crux was freed after Hong pulled a pin that Wheels left,then utilized the remaining pocket as a finger hold.No matter.Hong was so strong he probably could have punched a new hole in the rock! We didn't call it Tick Fever by the way.
Cheers,Jeff Newsom
By tenesmus
May 13, 2009

had a laugh yesterday when I was on this and found a tick on my shoulder
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
May 24, 2009

Long live Wheels! I remember in the old guide this was the "Wheeler-Newsom Wall". Funny how guidebook authors get to revise/edit things.
By jeff newsom
Jun 19, 2009

Thanks for noticing Drew!! I confess,my ego was a little bruised when the Ruckmans did that.Though we never named the route,I felt it should have at least been left as the Wheeler-Wall(Ellison originally named it the Wheeler -Newsom Wall,thanks Les!)as a tribute to Wheels.Yeah man, long live Wheeler!!
The Ruckman brothers were tight with Hong so I suppose that prompted it.Who knows??
By bsmoot
Jun 20, 2009

Hey Jeff:

Thanks for checking in. I like the old name, and I still call it The Wheeler Newsom Wall. The Ruckman's probably changed the name because of all of Steve's contributions. Steve was quite revered at the time. Glad I got to climb with Wheels.
By jeff newsom
Jun 21, 2009

Howdy Brian!---
Yes, it seems like everybody from that period has their Wheeler stories.My favorite is when Wheeler and I raced out from Deep Lake one day,hopped in one of his old beaters,sped 70mph over those beat up roads into Boulder Wyo, to grab some chips ahoy cookies,then zoomed back out to camp at Deep Lake!!White knuckle driving to say the least!
By CalmAdrenaline
From: SL,UT
May 14, 2010

Soo gooooood! exciting crux! Thank you Wheeler and Newsom! Is that oldschool hanger at the top from the FA?
By T_jones
From: Salt Lake
Aug 20, 2010

This is one of the most exhilirating and powerful 5.11 climbs in the canyon. This is absolutely not to be missed! Save all your energy for the double cracks...
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 1, 2011

Not many good 11a's in the canyon, but this one makes up for it. Beautifully steep thin hand crack to a fat horn rest followed by a fun chimney flake all ending in pulling the small bulge on blue tcu sized crack. Have a couple tcu sized pieces handy for the top 20 feet to the chains. I need some antibiotics for my tick fever!
By Greg Gavin
From: SLC, UT
Nov 28, 2012

The bottom takes cams well, and the top takes stoppers well.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 6, 2014

I succumbed to the tick fever today. Would be interested in hearing how others did the crux. I eventually worked out the crux sequence after the fact, but wow, is it burly! Will have to go back for the RP.

Video of my attempt here (most of it is played at 16x with the exception of the fall):
By Kyle Goupil
From: SLC, UT
May 11, 2017

Gear Recommendations:
Doubles: .3-.75
Singles: .1, .2, 1, 2, 3
Single set of nuts
6 runners/slings

This route is incredible!

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