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Tiananmen Square 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Herbert, Sandra Utterback, Sean Greer, 1990
Page Views: 2,244
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on May 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: Tim Belays Nora on Tiananmen Square. Note: Left (Y...


This climb has sporty bolt placements.

Climb up and left towards the first bolt. Beware there is a tricky move before some good flakes are reached below the 1st bolt.

Climb up and clip the 2nd bolt, now quickly commit to the crux moves. Good holds are soon reached and continue all the way to the top.


First climb right of the obvious crack of Yellow Peril.


5 bolts, 2 mussy hooks anchor

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By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
May 7, 2007

Good route.....Getting to first bolt on lead isnt that bad, just do it.....This is also the first pitch to yellowstreak 13a...another 5 bolts after anchors
By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Nov 11, 2015

I respectfully disagree with the above comment..

Getting to the first bolt isn't bad if you're solid on the 11c or 13 extension, but I wouldn't really recommend it to a mid 10 leader.

That comment is 8 years old though, so maybe a hold broke. I climbed this route to get to Tsunami (which is excellent) and I backed down from the move to get to the big flake at the start a couple times thinking "really? I need to do a gaston high step move 10 feet off the ground to get on this thing?" awesome.

Not a bad climb, but it's 5.10 neighbors are better climbing and more protected.
By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Nov 21, 2015

I had fun on this route, but I really can't get behind the idea of having almost a 30 foot runout while only being about 30 feet off the ground. Sure, it's easy but I found the gap between bolts 3 and 4 unnecessary.

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