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Thwarthog  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Swain, Pete Yost, Pete Axelson. 1983
Page Views: 371
Submitted By: Timmijal on Jun 23, 2013

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Pitch 1

Description 

Although the approach and finding the route can be a little troublesome, this route offers some great climbing, nice exposure, and a good dose of seclusion. If you're one who likes a good adventure then this is a great choice. I think finding the route was the crux of the day.

Pitch 1: Climb up and to the right to a blank corner. Climb the corner (Bolt), continue up good holds to a roof and then move right to a large ledge. (80')

Pitch 2: climb up and left utilizing some horizontals. Apparently there was an old ice screw which gives the route its name, but I could not find it. Shoot for a small right facing corner at the left end of a roof. steep moves up and to the left lead out of the corner. Then head up and left aiming for a short finger crack which climbs to a tree on the top.

Location 

This route is located towards the left end of the far cliff. There are a few ways to find the climb, You could rappel from the lookouts the the trail leads to, or bushwhack from the lower trail through the woods.
I had to move to a different area of the cliff and rappel down with two 60 meter ropes

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 camalot I found wires to be very useful. One bolt on the first pitch and a fixed nut on the second


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Thwarthog P2

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