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Forgotten Passage T 
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Thunderstruck 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: M. Frichette and D. Hare, 1970s.
Season: Faces North/Northwest. Afternoon sun on upper part.
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

This is a good climb once you get going... if this is your sort of thing. If you like OW/squeeze, it is perfect. If you don't, it is hell.

The beginning 7 meters of the route are dingy and poor but soon leads to better moves on good rock and good protection for a second 7 meters, including what may be the crux for some climbers. Beyond that point, it is you, your wide gear, and what you choose to do with it. The crack is splitter, solid, and wide. Some smaller gear (to 2") can be placed to the right of the crack at mid-height for a break from the wide gear.

Location 

This route starts in an unattractive, dingy, broken corner just left of the North arete of the formation, on the East side. It climbs that for about 7 meters to reach better, cleaner rock. The route ducks under a hanging flake that forms a roof and goes into an increasingly wide crack that leans to the right for the rest of its length to a ledge with a 2 bolts anchor, as for Petticoat.

Protection 

From first knuckle to as wide as you have... the top portion will be considerably runout without Valley Giants or Big Bros. Take all of the widest gear you have and a lot of long slings for the beginning.


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