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YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff, Bryan Pletta and Eric Whitbeck
Page Views: 1,264
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Aug 4, 2008

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Follow the right leaning arete to a hard crux right where the arete straightens out, then an intimidating rock over back to your left to gain a good horizontal break and the end of the real difficulties.

The first bit moving up and right along the arete is probably 5.11'ish and ends at a nice two handed mail slot. Get a good shake because it is on for the next 15 feet or so, powerful to start then quite technical ending at a horizontal. Follow an easier crack from the horizontal up to the anchors.


The obvious steep right leaning arete on the right end of the main section of wall.


Bolts and a bolted anchor

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By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 14, 2008

Some people who have tried this route feel as though they want an extra bolt to protect the rock over move above the crux. I want this route to be safe, however I did not feel as though I could stop to clip a bolt in this area and thus did not put one in. If anyone feels that they could stop to clip and would like a bolt there, they are more than welcome to add one. If I wanted this to be dangerous or heady I would not have put any bolts and run it as a head-point, which one could still do by simply not clipping the bolts if they were so inclined. Again, my goal is simply to put up a fun safe route for others to enjoy if someone feels it needs another bolt I have no problem with it.
By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 5, 2010

You definitely can't stop to clip through the crux section. The fall, with a good belayer is completely safe albeit sort of long.

What is most perplexing about this route the lack of holds getting started on the upper arete section. I can't find a 5.12 way to do it, it's very powerful with tough holds and bad feet. Feels harder than any other 12+ I've been on.
By Dan Isaac
Aug 29, 2011

i agree with John. unless i am missing some key beta or maybe some holds have broken i can't see how this route gets 12+. the route starts out with nice climbing to a very hard boulder problem and then easier climbing. An extra bolt through the crux is not going to make a big difference. The route is safe.
By Eric Whitbeck
Aug 30, 2011

I followed it clean after Lee led it and we figured since I did it it had to be 5.12. There was certainly a funky trick move in there, but I doubt it is 13-.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 31, 2011

When Eric followed it was right about the same time he did Mushroom Roof in Hueco, though that had taken him a bit more effort than this took him. My memory was that he hung once and then climbed through the crux, though his memory could be correct as well. So we figured if V8 was the hardest he'd climbed that something he could do first or second try was going to be a bit easier.

I will fully admit to really having no idea how hard this was at the time and 5.12+ was kind of a grade I threw out there because it seemed hard for me but I did it on my first lead attempt. I don't think I'd TR'd the thing clean before attempting to lead it though I'd certainly done all the moves. It seems from what everyone else (I know of a few others that have been on it as well) is saying that it is perhaps 5.13a/b.
By Eric Whitbeck
Aug 31, 2011

Lee is probably right, he has a far better memory than me for this stuff and I could have rested before doing the crux, but I could rest a week or two and still not climb 5.13. He also forgets how strong he has been/can be at times. Either way, they are probably some of the hardest moves I have climbed clean on a rope. Isn't mushroom roof an ancient pictograph of sweat, chalk and blood being protected by Texas State parks? Cheers.
By Paul Davidson
Sep 8, 2011

Ah come on now Eric. You've done plenty of 12s, no reason you couldn't pick off a 13 on a good day. Sounds like a 13 to me...
Rating something lower because so&so did it and they only climb 5.12 is how many old trad 5.9s have ended up as sandbags.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Sep 8, 2011

Or 5.10D's
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 10, 2012

OK, I changed the grade.

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