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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Peisker & Dan Hare
Page Views: 6,514
Submitted By: slevin on Jan 1, 2001

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Mike showing us the alternative, boulderer's crux ...

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  • Description 

    Thunderdome was the first route done on the North Face of Easter Rock, years before this wall became the excellent sport climbing arena it is today. If you happen to have a rack of gear in your pack, and you're not too pumped from all the excellent sport routes here, this climb will provide some excellent entertainment. Follow the obvious finger crack right of Eleanor. Slightly stubborn gear, clean rock, and a short, stout crux add up to one of the best hard finger cracks in Boulder Canyon.


    Wireds to a 3" cam. I know, I know, you only brought QDs to Easter Rock....


    Per Josh LaMar: bats are living at the roof crux and at the top.

    Photos of Thunderdome Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The whole enchilada.
    BETA PHOTO: The whole enchilada.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kurt finishing the crux on his flash of Thunderdom...
    Kurt finishing the crux on his flash of Thunderdom...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kurt putting his long reach to full advantage on h...
    Kurt putting his long reach to full advantage on h...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kurt flashing this awesome route!
    Kurt flashing this awesome route!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kurt working through the crux.
    Kurt working through the crux.

    Comments on Thunderdome Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 14, 2017
    By Mark Bockmann
    Sep 25, 2001

    Highly recommended if you're looking for a well-protected 12a trad route. I stuck three bomber Aliens in the roof (yeah, I'm a wuss) and finally went for it after hanging out for a while in the awkward "rest" below the crux.
    By Dougald MacDonald
    Jul 16, 2002

    I don't think the block above the roof is much to worry about -- I knocked on it hard (and pulled on it hard), and it seems really wedged in. Now watch me get sued!!

    Great climb: pumpier than it looks up to the roof, cool moves over the roof (easier if you're not short), another very hard move, then great 5.10 to the top. Now for the redpoint.....
    By jonah
    Jun 18, 2003

    Super fun route, but I keep getting spit out of the jams through the roof. Anyone got any good beta? It's rattly fingers there and feels burly for 12a....
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Sep 25, 2003

    You asked for beta so here's what I did: at the roof, there's a decent thin left hand jam, thumbs up, which allows you to move way out right to stick a good right hand side pull thats well-chalked. I toe-hooked my left foot in the crack to help out on balance while reaching for that right hand, that move is fun, wild, and probably 11+. Next, get the right foot around the corner to the right on a decent hold, then left foot onto a higher sloper horizontall just under the roof, and set up for a BIG reach to a jug, the crux move. I had to dyno to get it, but it's quite good. From there, make sure NOT to put a cam in the hand jam in front of you (as I've mistakenly done) or it will be very hard to climb past it without the jam. Use a nut or go a little higher before pro'ing. Excellent 5.10 or easy 5.11 climbing from there to the top.
    By Chris Archer
    May 30, 2004
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Fabulous route. One of the best trad climbs of its grade in the Boulder area. Powerful crux. I thought Chris Peisker led this on the FA.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Oct 2, 2005
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Interesting to see the upgrading for this. I did this again today for the second time. The first was about five years ago. I haven't placed much gear recently and would say that if you know what you're doing placing pro, this shouldn't be too epic. It took a long time to figure what gear should go where, like placing a #1.5 Friend in the key jam at the crux and then having to take it out and leave room for my hand. Fortunately the crux is brief and the rest of the climb is littered with jugs. On the other hand, I did Nevermore, Flying Beast and Catwoman on the same visit and they felt much easier overall.
    By reboot
    From: .
    Jul 6, 2007
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    Given how some of the sport routes here gets more than 3 star average, I'm hesitant to give this 3 stars, but I think that's all it deserves. It does not have a crack crux or any sustained hard crack section.

    I hung & fell at the crux (I was already pumped from a couple sport routes) before figuring out it was a bouldering problem, not a finger crack crux. Still, this feels at most 11+ for somebody with strong arms. At any rate, the protection is pretty straightforward and falls from the crux or above are clean.
    By Will Butler
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 24, 2008
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Amazing route. Thunderdome is pretty moderate before and after the crux, but the crux moves felt like solid 12a. My beta seemed different from everyone else's here so the best advice I have is just to get out there and figure it out for yourself. You'll likely have it to your lonesome even on sunny summer weekends. Isn't it great bringing trad gear to a sport crag.
    By slim
    Jul 10, 2009
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Really good crack route, particularly for Boulder Canyon. I thought it was right up there with Country Club, etc. in terms of quality. Good rock, good protection, steep, cool temps on a summer evening. What more could you ask for?

    In terms of difficulty, I thought 12a seemed pretty accurate. It was similar to other 12a's I have been on at Vedauwoo, Platte, BC, etc. That being said, I am generally better at enduro routes than bouldery power routes, such as this one. Gear is straightforward and not strenuous or pumpy, so it basically boils down to hammering through 3 or 4 tough moves. Tough one to onsight, as there is almost too much stuff to work with.
    By seanmo63
    Sep 8, 2016
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    Really phenomenal, bonafied 4 stars. There are several constrictions of various sizes in the roof crack at the crux that serve excellently as opposition finger locks for the move to the finger jam above the roof, and then a sinker heel hook below the roof keeps your hips in for the lock off move to the jug. Great, great, great.
    By Hanson Smith
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 12, 2017

    A few things: first, this is a great route, do it.

    Second, the fixed nut at the roof popped on me. I placed 0.4 equivalent below it, so it wasn't a big deal. I didn't replace the nut. It's unnecessary and detracts from the route in my opinion.

    Third, the anchors need a bit of work. There are two bomber bolts that are equalized with chain to a single quicklink holding a rap ring. This is the definition of not redundant. I added some cord and a biner, but what is really needed is some chain and another rap ring. I'll try to fix it next time I'm up there, in the mean time, don't steal my cord and biner.

    Finally, when cleaning be careful. I unclipped my tram and had a really bad encounter with a tree. The best thing to do is have someone follow, but if that isn't possible: clean to below the roof with a tram, lower to the ground with the tram still on, pull the rope so you have a stick clip through the remaining pieces, climb up to the last piece, and then downclimb, cleaning as you go. If anyone has a better way to clean, I'd love to know.

    Also, I didn't meet any bats.
    By Hanson Smith
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 14, 2017

    I put a quicklink with some chain up. The anchor is now bomber.

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