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Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
Page Views: 459
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Feb 12, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Here are what I believe are the intended starting ...


A slightly harder start to Who Needs Feet? Sit start to the right of WNF beneath the crux mantle with a decent hand hold and a foot in the corner. Dyno up and left to the slopey lip and finish with the mantle. Fun but short and not as good as its neighbor.


On the Conditions Boulder. Walk past the Swirley towards the next boulder you see, then head up the hillside on the left. The boulder will be in the clearing. Downclimb then jump.



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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 4, 2013
rating: V5 6C

I think you may be describing this problem incorrectly, at least in respect to the Kemple guidebook. The line you're describing is kind of like a direct start to WNF and a fun variation. It is probably v4 at most, since it really adds no difficult moves into 'Who Needs Feet?'.

In the Kemple guidebook, for 'Thump', it says to start to the right of the finish of 'Who Needs Feet?' with the left hand on a sloper and the right hand on a wide pinch. Pull on and make some hard moves to join the finish of 'Who Needs Feet?'. I started this way and it feels noticeably harder. Definitely v5, perhaps even on the stiff side of the grade.

I uploaded a picture with what I believe the starting holds actually are for this line.

There's also the possibility for a 'direct' version that would go straight up from the sloper and the pinch, eschewing the holds on 'Who Needs Feet?'. I would guess that this way is at least v9.
By BDalhaus
From: Bangor, ME
Sep 6, 2013

You might be right and given the numerous errors in the book it's hard to tell. My Kemple guide just says "dyno up and left", so I started from the only place that made sense from a sit start. Looking at it from a stand, I'd say you're right. Those are the crux holds on the Painful Traverse.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 7, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Well, give it a go next time you're out there. I shot some video as well that I will try to post up at some point.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 21, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Here's the video that I promised. It felt more natural to do it the way that I did, rather than going straight to the lip and then awkwardly dropping down to better position yourself for the top out.

By Brad Fauteux
From: Henniker, NH
Jul 3, 2016
rating: V4 6B

I ended up starting matched where the left start hold is shown in the picture, and it was really awkward trying to use what little feet there are below the holds. I decided to do a hang start and campus up left hand to an ok crimp/ sloper, then bump up to the lip, get a left toe on the shelf then match. From here I moves my left hand further left to better position myself for a left heel hook and mantel. This felt a touch harder than "Who Needs Feet".
It didn't feel like I was going to be able to campus off the slopers in 80 degree weather, but it ended up going first try after using some liquid chalk and figuring out where the slopers were best.

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