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Gus Fruh aka Fern Bar Area
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Thumb Dance 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
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Page Views: 861
Submitted By: Grear Wilson on Aug 19, 2011  with updates from Jake Westfall

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

Awesome route. Solid 5.10 climbing to the second bolt. Runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Potential groundfall, though the climbing eases drastically. After you are about 20ft past the 2nd bolt, you can either clip a piton (unnecessary), or clip the first set of anchors. If you feel like you want to climb some more, clip the left anchor and climb up and left past one more bolt and mantle onto a big block and rap off some rusty chains. DEFINITELY worth doing to second half.

Location 

This route is 2nd from the right, to the right is "Blind Date" Kingdom of Ging.

Protection 

3 bolts, 1 pin, sport anchors for the first set, chain links for the second.


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By WMcD
Apr 23, 2014

Be prepared to pull stout 5.9 moves with your feet above the second bolt. I recommend not falling on this one, but with a competent belayer, it would be pretty hard to hit to ground. Good clean fun.
By Lee Payne
From: Austin, Texas
Apr 21, 2017

Location should be updated. The routes of Myth Wall are between this and Kingdom of Ging cave now.
By Jake Westfall
From: Austin, TX
May 1, 2017

It's actually not even the rightmost route on this particular wall. That honor belongs to Blind Date (10c), one to the right of this.
By Jake Westfall
From: Austin, TX
Jul 7, 2017

A 35 meter rope is almost-but-not-quite long enough to link these two pitches.

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