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Thulsa Doom 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chandler Van Schaack & Shaun Reed, Fall '16
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 833
Submitted By: ChanVan Schaack on Sep 23, 2016

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Mike Patz working the first crux, which is most li...

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  • Description 

    Thulsa Doom is the newest 35-meter route on the West face of Overhang Rock. The route climbs the face to the left of Snake Watching, eventually slithering its way up the striking arete feature that forms the north (left) edge of the upper West face. A 70m rope is MANDATORY. The climb has a bit of everything, from reachy gymnastics down low (the second roof/ 3rd bolt will likely be the crux for the vertically challenged) to super balancy and technical face climbing to straight, bare-down thuggery. There is lots of cool 5.11-ish face climbing thrown in for good measure as well. This climb is totally classic in terms of both the movement and the position. Go Do It!

    Many thanks to OSMP, the Access Fund, and the Flatirons Climbing Council for making new-routing possible in the Flatirons!

    Location 

    It is on the far left (north) side of the West Face of Overhang Rock, approximately 20 feet left of the start of Snake Watching. See the description for "Honey Badger" for general approach beta.

    Protection 

    18 bolts plus an anchor. You may wish to stick clip the first bolt. A #0.75 Camalot or equivalent may be used between the 6th and 7th bolts (this terrain is probably 5.8 but runout otherwise). A few long draws or runners are nice for the bolts just before the upper arete but are not mandatory. A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED!!!!


    Photos of Thulsa Doom Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Thulsa Doom.
    Thulsa Doom.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Thulsa Doom takes the line between the trees, thro...
    BETA PHOTO: Thulsa Doom takes the line between the trees, thro...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Shaun Reed just above the upper crux.
    Shaun Reed just above the upper crux.

    Comments on Thulsa Doom Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Abel Jones
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 28, 2016
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Wow... sick route. Thanks for putting this up.
    By Shaun Reed
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 8, 2016
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Like many of the routes on Overhang Rock, this is a bit of a journey. I found that the cunning use of slings can significantly help rope drag, especially on the optional 0.75 BD cam and the next bolt. A couple strategic long draws can also be very useful. If you don't have a 0.75 BD, just about any cam smaller than a 0.75 BD should work, too. Or just cruise the easy terrain to the next bolt.

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