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Throw Back 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: T. Bubb, M. Salazar, 8/3/14
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces W/SW. AM Shade.
Page Views: 44
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 4, 2014

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  • Description 

    This climb is a good route with good moves. The character is edging and pebble-pimping with a finger-lock thrown in a few times. The crux can be protected on a good but small brass nut followed immediately by a textbook-solid small cam, which is heartening, considering that these are between you and a groundfall.

    Start up from the ground on good edges and pebbles, climbing close to 20' to reach a seam. You can reach a small, open section in the seam next to a few good edges. Finger-lock this, and place a solid but small brass nut (small RP) in the crack below the fingerlock for security before letting go and getting onto the edges and placing a yellow Alien or equivalent narrow cam in the finger-lock. With care, this can be a bomber placement. Make crux moves to get above gear and place again (similar sized cam) before cruising to the top. A few more placements may be available, but the climbing was fairly moderate.

    The name is a reference to the condition of the FA. It was a 'throwback' to earlier times. For lack of a harness, the FA was done by tying into the end of the rope as a seat-harness. It took a moment to remember how to do it.


    This is 7 meters to the right of Back To Basics. There is a small seam and a few little openings in it 6 meters off the ground and going to the top of the same cliff band.


    A small brass nut, and 2 0.5"-0.75" narrow cams (i.e. yellow Alien), which are bomber. A few other pieces can also be placed, but those are the crux protection after a runout from the ground.

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