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Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch)
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Brain, The TR 
Chimney, The T 
Joe's Place T 
Nose, The TR 
Practice Session T 
Prize, The T 
Standard Route T 
Thriller Arete T 
Unknown (Left of Practice Session Right of The Brain) T 
White Face, The T 

Thriller Arete 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Parrot, Rob Adair 1990
Page Views: 500
Submitted By: James Otey on Jun 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Thriller Arete.


This prominent arete is certainly the most photogenic climb in the area, with terrific views of Mount Washington in the distance. About 60 Feet to the right of Standard Route, Thriller climbs the intimidating overhanging arete, following it up and right. Start on the right side of the arete, eventually making your way around the corner to holds the left. Eventually a jug can be reached near the top where you can shake out and consider the top out. Breaking left from this jug is a variation of the original route, and clocks in at 5.10a. Either way, the climbing is pumpy and sequential all the way to the jug.


60 feet the the right of Standard Route, and left of the Chimney and Blockheads, Thriller Arete climbs the obvious steep arete.


Takes mostly smaller cams and nuts

Photos of Thriller Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: About half way up Thriller
About half way up Thriller

Comments on Thriller Arete Add Comment
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By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
May 1, 2010

is it possible to set this up as a top rope?
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 28, 2010

Based on this Photo I'd think it is.
By Jeb Bruno
Apr 17, 2012

How is the gear on this climb?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 17, 2012

Good gear right up to the top with some pump.Small cams and a couple wires. Double up at the rest so you can just fire to the top.
By chris magness
Jun 25, 2012

Gear is good, but hard to place and the rock is quite broken. Look for a blue (#1) TCU or Mastercam in a hidden horizontal near the top. Punch it from here.

Top roping this route is possible by climbing up the Standard Route face via a 5.6 finger crack on the right side to a horizontal which will take finger sized gear for an anchor. You'll need to rig a few directionals too. That said, this route really a lead climb.
By burlap submariner
Jan 27, 2013

agreed chris, the gear isnt super straight forward but not too devious.
the exposure on this route is awesome for a single pitch. If you can do this route you should climb the first 15 feet of the chimney route then bust left following a pumpy thin crack to the top, not sure what the route name is but its a little harder but super fun.
By Daniel Gajda
Aug 28, 2016

If you have climbed this route or are looking for something a little different try the finger crack to the right of this route. Such a fun pumpy route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet finger crack
Sweet finger crack
By Arthur Manville
May 22, 2017

I have no idea why this route is rated so highly, it is not a 3 star route by any means. Maybe a two star. I climbed in excellent weather and conditions and it was still very meh. I would not suggest setting up a top rope on this route. Previous comments suggest it is possible and it certainly is but if you have the ability to lead you should just lead it, if you are looking to get a beginner on this route don't.
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jun 12, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I thought the climbing was great! Awesome route overall. Speaking of the 5.10a "variation" which seemed to be the obvious natural line to me, it is definitely soft in the grade for a trad route - no way it would be rated any higher than 5.9 at Cathedral. And there are really only a few tough moves - otherwise it is mostly a Cathedral 5.7. However, the gear placements can be a little tricky, and some moves are committing which can make it feel PGish.

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