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Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed S 
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Pit Bull Prowser S 
Reversal Roof S 
Ride My See-saw S 
Split Personality S 
Strange Times T,S 
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Talking Out Of Turn S 
Threshold Of A Dream S 
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Unfamiliar Strangers S 
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Wine and Roses T 

Threshold Of A Dream 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D and Greg Hand
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,661
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Bob D on the Threshold of a Dream.

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  • Description 

    The crux is a series of hard technical moves up the arete and over the small bulge.

    Great moves on very solid rock...maybe one of the best routes at Animal World.

    Will be a classic.

    Keeping with Moody Blues theme...the name comes from a classic album from them.


    Start ten feet right of Days of Future Passed...climb up to a small overhang and crank a strenuous move to gain the slab....continue straight up the arete to the anchors.


    Nine clips to a two bolt-ring anchor.

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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 26, 2016
    By Justin Roth
    Apr 27, 2008

    This route is very good. together with the two routes to its left, you have a great little chunk of climbing in a concentrated area. However, be warned that this and many of other routes at the upper Animal World crag have a lot of loose / chossy rock. Most of this climb is clean, but a large, angular flake and a loafy jug up top look to be possible missile material. Knock on flakes and jugs before you weight them, and try not to yard out on anything that isn't bombtruck. I guess. Anyway, like I said, sweet route.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    May 1, 2008

    We did a start directly below the arete, rather than coming in from Days of Future Passed. Is this a new variation? The first bolt however was missing a hanger, but a nut cable can be used on the stud and yellow and red Aliens can back this up also until you reach over the roof and clip the 2nd bolt. Pretty good climbing overall and the direct start adds some more 5.11 down low.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 9, 2008
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    Done with the direct start this is the best of the new routes, and pretty good over all for where and what it is. The 3 star rating assigned is accounting for what I believe it will be like once it cleans up a little more. At present, some of the small chips for feet were still grinding down and I snapped a good bit off of one of them. It actually got bigger now. With a little more srcaping and brushing, it will be a good route.

    The flake up high sure seems like a death flake to me. I was scared to go any higher then the finger-locks down low once I looked up at it. It looked like a good hard pull from the top or a solid whack with a sledge hammer would probably dislodge the whole thing, but it might go all the way to the road and kill someone... there or on the way down.

    I hope it won't, but my recent experinece at A.W. on the new routes has been less than stellar. I pulled a 200lb flake off of the 11 and several holds off of the 12 to the right.
    By Mark Ferguson
    May 10, 2008
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Thanks Bob for bolting this. It is a decent route, and after doing it a second time I like it even more. I placed 2 Xs with chalk on the flake up high. Please be VERY careful with this flake and use it for nothing more than a low finger lock. From this lock, you can bust out right to good face holds. If this thing goes, it could make it to the road.
    By david goldstein
    Jun 18, 2008

    Much more enjoyable now that the flake has been secured.
    By Andy Donson
    Jun 19, 2008

    Terry Murphy and I toproped and scrubbed this route a couple of years ago but never bolted it cos we couldn't figure out how to remove the offending flake. Granted it's fine just using the fingerlock at the bottom, but as Dave said the flake kinda leads you on. I did shove a block off about 5 foot from the bottom of the route and then watched in horror as it accelerated down the slope, jumped the fence and barreled across the highway about 15 seconds before a car drove by. Ughhh. Nighttime trundling seemed like the best option to remove the flake safely, but we never managed to get it together.
    By SAL
    From: broomdigiddy
    Jun 21, 2008
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Great line.
    But rip that flake out.

    Come on...
    So two people of have yarded on that thing. It is only a matter of time before that thing kills some one below. I climbed the route as you intended Bob, but I scoped that flake out. It is pretty scary in my book. It should have been part of the cleaning process. We all know how much traffic these routes will get.
    Much Respect.
    By SAL
    From: broomdigiddy
    Jun 22, 2008
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    I guess I just wanted to validate the danger of the block and see if you would mind. I was up there with Doug Madara yesterday and did not really want his visit to be a stone trundling bash. :)
    We will look into getting up there and cleaning that block. It would be a major bummer for that to dislodge with the amount of folks that climb there.
    Thanks for the additions up there.
    By 1Eric Rhicard
    Jun 23, 2008

    Jesus Cristo Bob! I applaud your hard work as I have done the same. I drilled two 10 inch deep holes and glued two threaded rods into them. I then camouflaged the holes with sand. The rock was a little hollow and since the bolt and hanger that keeps you off the ledge needed to be in that section of rock I figured I would just make sure it was bomb proof. What a pain in the butt. Some routes as well as those who trust that our bolt placements are in solid rock deserve the extra effort to make them safe.
    By SAL
    From: broomdigiddy
    Jun 24, 2008
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Nice Bob. I will be up there today. I'll give a look.
    Thanks for the hard work.
    By Aeon Aki
    Nov 15, 2008

    A chossy, awkward pull over the initial roof to a very enjoyable slab/arete sequence to hold your breath watch where you step "hollow" sounding jug and flake pulling. If you've climbed everything else at Animal World then at least you have an excuse to get on it.
    By Crackhead
    Sep 26, 2016
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Thought this was actually a really nice line, but it definitely felt quite a bit harder than its 12- neighbor (which feels more like .11). I'd give this .12a. Managed to tear off a chalky but pretty useless hold under the roof at the 1st bolt. Non-intuitive moves through the first roof are hard but fun and very different, it feels like tufa climbing at times. The finger locks at the second roof crux are outstanding, and the arete/heel hook exit is great.

    • **Everyone please do your best to not climb any higher on the sketchy bolted in flake piece than the finger locks. It doesn't make the route any easier and is dangerous.***

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