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Quiver T 
Red Pillar T 
Silhouette T 
Smilin' the Hard Way T 
Steep Hikin' T 
Step Lively T 
Supper's Ready T 
Three Doves T 
Three Vultures T 
Traverse of the Clods T 
Twilight Zone T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 
Wop Stop T 

Three Vultures 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Willie Crowther, Bill Homeyer, Mike Levin, 1961
Page Views: 1,765
Submitted By: Artem Lebedev on Sep 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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3 vultures on top of Three Vultures.


P1: Move past a difficult boulder problem (crux) to get to a thin crack about 7 feet above the ground. Follow the crack to a bulge, and then climb the easy face above to the GT ledge. (5.9+, 100 ft.)

P2: Continue straight up to a ledge and climb a pillar (V1, V2) to the base of a flaring crack. Climb the crack to the ceiling and then hand traverse ~15' right to a small ledge with a bush. (5.9-, 110 ft.) Belay from here to avoid a rope drag.

- V1 Climb the overhang left of the crack to join V3. 5.10 PG. FA: John Myers, Mike Freeman, 1980.
- V2 Move out right from the arch then angle left across the wall to the top. 5.10 PG. FA: Rich Romano, 1970s.
- V3 From the top of the crack, climb a roof to the foot of an arch. Swing out left, then on to the top. 5.10 PG. FA: Rich Perch, John Bragg, 1970s.

P3: Climb an obvious corner up to an anchor (5.8, not recommended). Also see comments below for better options.

Descent: Three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.


Start ~100 feet right of Andrew, below a short thin crack that starts just above head height.


Big cams and long extenders are useful.

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By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 14, 2010

Linked P1/P2 of Three Vultures with P3 of Face to Face. P1 crux is right off the ground, the climb eases up considerably into a ladder like experience to the GT leadge. P2 is amazingly cool. If you are doing P2, don't stop at the first tree with rings and slings, go all the way to the ledge with the pinnacle. Belay P2 from there. Climb the pinnacle to the right angled off width. It's akward, fun, juggy. Jam some gear at the ceiling and traverse right on HUGE hands and smallish feet. Create a belay 15 feet to the right. We finished up on No Glow. It's a great link up; another great airy traverse with big hands and a huge throw (I am only 5'2") to get over the roof. ONce over the roof you are on some very strange rock; it's hollow. It's like a giant flake sitting on top of the rock underneath. Very strange.
By SethG
Aug 14, 2011

Hey Gail I think you mistakenly wrote No Glow in your comment when you meant to say Face to Face, as you did the first time.

Did all of Three Vultures yesterday. The first pitch crux is literally the first step up off the ground. If you are tall you'll be able to reach the good edge while standing at the base; if you're 5' 7" like me you'll need to boulder up to it. Then a couple thin moves get you to the pro and easier climbing. Really mellow to the GT Ledge, a bit dirty/vegetated as you go from the first ledge with the tree to the actual GT Ledge.

Second pitch is awesome-- unusual climbing for the Gunks. Off-widthy flare. For me this was the crux just below the pin. For my partner on lead (I led pitch one) for pitch two I think the crux was committing to the traverse. As a follower, if the leader has protected the traverse well, I think it feels easy for 5.9.

Final pitch is nice enough. We combined pitch 2 and 3 and I don't think the drag was too bad.
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Jun 15, 2015

The Trapps app has P3 at 5.5 and that's about right. In any case it is dirty and I don't recommend it.

A better option seems to be Three Vultures Direct which cuts left after the initial flake crack/layback and finishes on p3 of Face to Face but avoiding that routes p3 initial vertical seam crux. Haven't done it yet but looks high quality and around 5.9.
By Alec Orenstein
From: Gallup, NM
Nov 29, 2015

The Trapps App calls v3 described above "Three Vultures Direct." Go to the top of the flake, and then pull the roof into a stance in the arching corner. Then head up and left over the white arete into the final roof of Amber Waves of Pain.

It's a fantastic pitch, but the crux roof is quite strenuous (very solid 10c). Highly recommended.
By teresamatrix
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 6, 2016

"A better option seems to be Three Vultures Direct which cuts left after the initial flake crack/layback and finishes on p3 of Face to Face but avoiding that routes p3 initial vertical seam crux. Haven't done it yet but looks high quality and around 5.9."

I did this today. It is indeed the best thing to do if you want more fun than that boring 5.5 finish. It is really fun! Once you start marching up the flake, it will be obvious when you want to trend left into the finish of Face to Face. In the Dick Williams book, this is called variation 2a and it is given 5.10b.

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