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Three Pipe Problem 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Sport, Boulder, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Scott Chapman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: Scott Chapman on Nov 4, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Taken on the approach

Description 

The line and location of the bolts allows for two variations. The quality line stays left of the bolts on the arête. This version is the 5.13, three star variation, but it is also possible to duck right to a chossy jug and cop a rest on the big ledge. This probably drops the grade to 12.d and deminishes the quality as it disrupts the flow.

Location 

This is the overhanging arête, just right of Bitch Slapped, on the far right side of Cathedral. You have to scramble up the slab to reach the start of the route.

Protection 

Five bolts lead to a bolted anchor.


Photos of Three Pipe Problem Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the failed attempts before the FA
One of the failed attempts before the FA

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By Scott Chapman
Nov 4, 2015

The anchor was there but I added the bolts. I am under the impression it was an anbandoned project of the original developers. I don't feel particularly confident at assigning ratings so it may be different than the 5.13 rating I gave it. If you climb it feel free to throw in your two cents. Also, I'd love to hear the backstory on the anchors that were there.
By Karl Kiser
Nov 10, 2015

Tom Wezwick and I worked on this line some years ago. I am relatively sure we placed the anchor as well. It is good that you finished the route and contributed to the Pecos.

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