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The Black Jack Boulder
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Three of Clubs TR 

Three of Clubs 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  TR, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 30, 2013

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back side of blackjack boulder and the line of 3 o...

Description 

a few words: Pumpy, crimpy, tricky, loose, weird, obscure...

This is a very interesting route.
While the climbing is fine and even fun in parts it is very tricky logistically and that takes away from the route. Most would say it takes all of the fun out of it but i think that would be a bit much.

How can a TR be tricky logistically? Well normally top rope routes climb up but this one starts up the left side of the face, then at 15 feet or so it bangs a sharp right and traverses 25+ feet clear across the boulder to a crux sequence moving to the top right side of the boulder. There is a hard part on the lower left end and another on the upper right. Basically, the only way i feel it can be done safely is to rig the anchor on the right and try to find a directional piece somewhere in the traverse section.

When i tried it the other day i put my anchor right in the middle but i felt like if i fell low on the route i would swing in to the ground and on the upper crux my rope would be 10 feet straight out to my left causing a dangerous swing.

Location 

Start up Suicide Kings for about 10 feet then head up and right to crimps and a long rail heading right. Follow the rail across the boulder to a hard sequence to the top.

Protection 

top rope with careful rigging due to sharp edges and dangerous swings. A directional may be possible to make it safer.


Photos of Three of Clubs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: this only shows about the first 1/3 of the climb.....
BETA PHOTO: this only shows about the first 1/3 of the climb.....

Comments on Three of Clubs Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 6, 2015

So... I sent this one this evening...
Used two separate toprope set ups to protect the traverse.

My full review: DON'T BOTHER!!!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 7, 2015

Was this the last of all the obscure routes you have to do to climb them all?
I am a little jealous since my run at sending them all is over for now and maybe for good.
Just started doing rheumatoid arthritis this july and stopped climbing. I hope this shit will go away...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 9, 2015

awwww man, really sorry to hear this.
I do have a few more obscurities to pick off but I'm getting close. I was about to start up Bonsai Pipeline the other day (as you requested) when I decided the top looked a bit wet but I will get on it soon...
Good luck with the arthritis man... I hope you can get back to it soon...
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Oct 21, 2015

Get well Eric, there were only a few of us, and now they'll really only be a couple of us. A few sounds way better!

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