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Three Little Birds 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Adam Huxley
Page Views: 3,031
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 23, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (108)
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Katie Kelble on Three Little Birds - Oct. 2014.


This is a fun route. I don't often think sport routes are "classic", but it is rated so in the guidebook, and I agree. It is fun pulling the small roof at the start. This is the crux. The holds are good here. Above you mostly climb a thin crack. You could place small cams if you wanted, between bolts, but they are not necessary. There are face holds to be found as well. This is a really fun climb.


This route is the furthest right route at the crag. There is a fallen tree right at the start. Descend from the anchor at the top.


7 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos of Three Little Birds Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: West Wall topo photo.
BETA PHOTO: West Wall topo photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Katie Kelble (10 yrs old) pulling through the crux...
Katie Kelble (10 yrs old) pulling through the crux...
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber about midway up.
Unknown climber about midway up.
Rock Climbing Photo: The climb.
BETA PHOTO: The climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam, 7/13/2013.
Adam, 7/13/2013.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ross getting ready to pull the crux.
Ross getting ready to pull the crux.

Comments on Three Little Birds Add Comment
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By A. Bandos
Apr 5, 2015

Great climb. I love how the though provoking slab above is continuous and not grid bolted. Bolted well, keeps it fun.
By Matt Pierce
From: Denver, CO
Apr 12, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Really nice line with a fun crux. This route will also go on gear. A 0.75 to protect the crux and a few nuts and small cams will work above. Nice job, Adam.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 1, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Be careful using some of the thinner flakes. They flex and make it feel like too much outward pressure with provide air time. One at the lip readily wiggles.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
May 11, 2015

I did this route for the second time, and it is still fun. I did not find the flexing flakes Leo talks about. It is certainly a route you should do if visiting the area.
By Tombo
From: Boulder
Jul 4, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I had the beta for the roof, so it was pretty straightforward, probably 5.9 if you read it wrong. The upper slab is a blast, the bolt spacing helped the fun factor.
By cmartin1345
Nov 10, 2016

One of, if not the best route at this crag, the roof has some fun moves on it, and it's well-bolted. After that, it's some fun, crimpy moves until the last 10-15 feet of the climb when it turns into 5.6 until the anchors. Overall, it's an awesome route!
By Connor Wilkinson
Jul 7, 2017

5th bolt is falling out - the nut may just need to be tightened, but the bolt is spinning pretty badly, and the nut can be turned by hand. Pretty unsafe for right now - if someone with a tool or drill is heading that way any time soon, please address.

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