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Three Little Bats S 

Three Little Bats 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Josh Pollock and Preston Evans, April 2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,022
Submitted By: Josh on May 24, 2015

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Katie K. on the Three Little Bats roof.

Description 

This is a long route with very good face climbing up to and after the slanting roof. There is a traversing crux move (maybe the hardest on the route?) just below the roof and a reach to the jugs above the roof that is sometimes difficult to suss out. The upper face stays steep and offers a 5.9 spot or two of its own.

A longer draw is recommended for the bolt just before the roof (the last one on the face below) to minimize rope drag, but there may still be some on the upper face. A 60 meter rope might just make it to the ground, but you better knot your ends just in case. Note that the top anchors are a body length below the lip, so if you are rigging the climb from above, you will need to anchor off a juniper tree (long slings) to climb down to the bolt anchors.

Location 

It is on the right side of the First Triangle. When you arrive at the bottom of the rappel, this is the line immediately to your left.

Protection 

12 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. Some leaders may want to bring a 0.5 or 0.75 Camalot for the crack just after you have turned the roof.


Photos of Three Little Bats Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Preston Evans working the crux roof.
Preston Evans working the crux roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Preston Evans turning the roof.
Preston Evans turning the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: The climb.
BETA PHOTO: The climb.

Comments on Three Little Bats Add Comment
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By Josh
From: Golden, CO
May 24, 2015

Some leaders may want to bring a 0.5 or 0.75 Camalot for the crack just after you have turned the roof. There is another bolt coming in a move or two, and those moves are easy, but a fall would most likely put you back below the roof. On the other hand, a fall off a cam above the roof might put you right into the lip - ouch.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Aug 2, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a nice climb, but certainly not a 5.11 in my opinion. I led it onsight with relative ease, and I'm not a 5.11 climber. It felt no harder than Undisclosed Location to me, and despite all the lichen that will clean up and make it easier, it's already quite a bit easier than the 5.10s at Tiers of Zion. So, enjoy it as a nice 5.9, and don't let the 5.11 rating scare you off (the approach to the Upper Tier may legitimately discourage you, however). Kudos to Josh and other developers.
By Josh
From: Golden, CO
Aug 4, 2015

Agreed, Dave-- the posted grade has now been adjusted appropriately. Fortunately, after more people have had a chance to try the route (and after I have had a chance to repeat it), a few different ways to deal with the roof sequence have been discovered, and several of them are more straightforward than whatever we were doing on the FA. Cheers.
By Maria Fullenkamp
From: Denver, CO
May 15, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Wow - what a fun climb! The roof move is truly 5.9 and pretty unique in that most roof pulls are 10+ or higher and do not have jugs. The balancy traverse move is fun too. A little vegetated/dirty, like the other climbs at this crag, but I still highly recommend it!

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