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Three Hour Arete 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Austin Archer & Rick Ziegler
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Fall, Winter, Summer (evenings)
Page Views: 3,543
Submitted By: rickziegler Ziegler on May 13, 2011

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High up on 'Three Hour Arete'


Four pitch climb with an easy approach. Pitch 1: left and below a bolt single bolt, then up a thin crack (5.9). Head up left to a 5.7 lieback corner. 30m pitch. 1 bolt + gear for belay (small + #2,#3) below small bush. Pitch 2: Start with 5.8 gear protected rightward traverse, then up a crack to a bolted bulge (5.9). 4 more bolts on the 5.8 arete lead to a bolted anchor. Pitch 3: 20m up the bolted arete (5.10a) to a bolted anchor. Pitch 4: Clip a bolt and commit to the crux mantle (5.10c), continue 30m up the bolted arete/face. (Alternately, continue left after the first bolt for the 5.10d, "Hall Pass" variation, leading to the same anchor)


Approach: Park 0.6 miles past Pratt’s
0.6 miles past Pratt's Crack Gully on Pine Creek Road, to where small a creek crosses road.
Walk on old mining road, to use trail.
Short Class 3 to base of cliff.
10 minutes.


10 quickdraws. Gear: thin - 3 inch. 4 rappels with one 60 or 70m rope.

Photos of Three Hour Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On pitch 2 of Three Hour Arete, view into Pine Cre...
On pitch 2 of Three Hour Arete, view into Pine Cre...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at my partner on pitch 2 of Three Hour ...
Looking up at my partner on pitch 2 of Three Hour ...
Rock Climbing Photo: me on the last pitch variation
me on the last pitch variation
Rock Climbing Photo: sue on the last pitch
sue on the last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: rock climbing.
rock climbing.
Rock Climbing Photo: James on the second pitch of 3HA.
James on the second pitch of 3HA.
Rock Climbing Photo: James on the last pitch of 3HA.
James on the last pitch of 3HA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo

Comments on Three Hour Arete Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 24, 2017
By Victor Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
May 14, 2011

The short approach to this tidy little big route means there is no reason NOT to climb it! A great quick multipitch with some very interesting rock features (check out the crazy horizontal black ripples on the last pitch!) and great rock quality. Good place to go to be alone with your honey snookums, brother from another mother, or sister from another mister.

Can link pitches 1 and 2 w/ a 70m...I wouldn't link 3 and 4 tho, the first move of P4 is, uh, interesting....
By Jeff Scheuerell
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Nice job guys! I will be checking your work out soon.
By Jason Chinchen
From: Bend, Oregon
Jun 18, 2011

Nice climb! Thanks for putting it up!
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Linked up first 2 P's of Strikeslip to last two of 3HA.

4th pitch was very fun! Cool crux sequence and some very awesome climbing. The rock is almost reminiscent of a granite Red Rock up there. Highly recommended.
By Kristian Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Oct 18, 2012

This is a great route. That little boulder problem in the sky which kicks off P4 is a real gem. Next time I must do the variation finish. First time I had to stay on the arete 'cause it is so cool.
By Darren Malloy
Nov 2, 2012

We climbed the first 2 pitches yesterday, and look forward to coming back for the rest of this route, and StrikeSlip, sometime soon.

I did want to point out - the first pitch route description on Mountain Project differs from the description on the posted photo/topo, and neither one of them is quite right. The Mountain Project route description calls it a 40 meter pitch and specifically says "gear belay" - no mention of the belay bolt.

Out on the cliff, the belay bolt is about 30 meters up, not 35.

Using the route description beta we came up with our own variation. Climb the first pitch past the belay bolt, continuing up the corner another 10 meters to a nice belay ledge. Start pitch 2 by stepping down to traverse a thin crack to the right (5.9?, protects with small stoppers and cams) under a roof to join pitch 2 at the bolted 5.9 bulge.

Call it the "don't trust the internet" variation. Or, use the beta from the photo/topo and stay on route. If someone wants to edit the route description to mention the belay bolt and correct the pitch length, that would be spiffy.

Anyhow, great find by Austin and Rick, and another great Pine Creek mixed multi-pitch.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The belay bolt for pitch one was added a little bit later because naturally I think most want to keep heading up the mungy corner and skipping what we used as the FA belay. Off the the pitch one belay, head up and right into another corner, up and around roof(little bulge crux), and up the easy bolted arete to belay ledge. On the pitch two arete, roots have dried up and been pulled out, making for some nice natural gear placements somewhat close to bolts. This situation might be remedied soon. We're glad to hear folks are enjoying the route.
By rickziegler Ziegler
Nov 15, 2012

Thanks Darren. I've tried to make the description more clear, so folks know where to belay on P1 and where to traverse right to gain the start of the arete on P2.
By Old Skool
Nov 23, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Have done this route over a dozen times now since May of 2011 and still can't get over the aestheticness of it all. Great Job Austin and Rick.

The last three times I have thoroughly enjoyed the "Hall Pass" varitiation to the top.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Nov 24, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

What an awesome route, definitely destined to become a super classic. I can, without hesitation, rank this stellar climb among such classics as Serenity Crack in the Valley and Direct Northwest Face on Lembert Dome in Tuolumne. A bit different in the type of climbing, but as good or better in terms of quality. Clean, well protectable/bolted, climb/rap with one 60m rope (knot ends, it's tight rapping from the top of P2 to the top of P1 of Strikeslip). Nice liebacking and jamming yields to relatively low angle edging. Crux goes at A0, if necessary. Superb position and very photogenic route viewed from the top down, especially when sun and shade are divided by the arete while the second (or a following party's leader) is climbing. Short, easy approach only helps. One word of caution: the base of the climb shows impact scars of massive, smaller sized rock fall...
By rickziegler Ziegler
Nov 26, 2012

Thanks everyone for the positive feedback! I wanted to comment on the rock scarring at the base of this route. That was all from cleaning on "Strikeslip." I have yet to see any natural rock fall from this formation, though wearing a helmet would be prudent.
By Kristian Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 10, 2012

Regarding rockfall, when I did it in Sept., there was a lot of fresh scarring surrounding the belay at the top of P3. Was this from cleaning on the FA? Would have had to come from near the top of the route to hit there.
By rickziegler Ziegler
Dec 16, 2012

Just to clarify a couple of things:
1. The rock scarring on the face of 3 Hour Arete and at the base was ALL from cleaning the fourth pitch of Strikeslip. I had to remove several television size stacked blocks to get to the goods. I hope the scars fade with time but I felt like the death blocks should all be taken out. Strikeslip (and 3HA) now have very little loose rock and is worthy in its own right. I've spent dozens of days on this formation, I have seen NO natural rock fall (but some minor ice fall immediately after a snow)
2. Shameless plug: If you like this route, check out the nearby Lamb Wall. Moment of Zen is very good. There are a handful of other single pitch routes there too, all clean, well protected and worth doing.
By Amy W.
From: bishop,ca
May 5, 2013

Fun route. I look forward to trying Hall Pass next time.
By sibylle
From: Colorado
May 16, 2013

Awesome route - good job! We encountered no rockfall nor loose rocks.
By karen roseme
Aug 9, 2014

Great route Austin and Rick.
It was very fun with good protection and great rock! We loved the last pitch variation too.
Thanks Karen
By Steve Gomez
Oct 21, 2014

A very fun route! Thank you for all the hard work on the new routes!
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Really fun route. For me the pitch ratings felt; 5.9, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10b.
TR'd Hallpass, very good, but would be a bit spooky to lead the traverse over the roof.
Also TR'd Strikeslip P3 and P1 on the way down. P3 would make a good alternative to Three Hour Arete P3, but P1 felt a bit contrived.
Had the whole arete to ourselves but counted 20 vehicles in the Sheelite canyon parking area!
By Jeff Scheuerell
Jun 3, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Cheers to Austin and Rick for the great additions to a great area that Pine Creek is. Miss that rock!
By Vit
Sep 30, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route!
Best to set up P1 belay at the anchors past the bulge.
P3 is 5.8, definitely not 10a.
P4 crux mantle right off the belay is maybe 10a, rest of the pitch is 5.8-5.9.
By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Jun 18, 2016

Super fun climb, great job guys. Bolts and some gear.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 13, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun, but not classic IMO. First and last pitches are the good ones. The last pitch is definitely thoughtful at times.
By Norm Larson
From: Wilson, Wy.
May 15, 2017

Whether you think it's a classic or not this a fun route. very fun. Leave the gear at the top of pitch two. I wasn't sure if it was mixed or just bolts up there and dragged the unnecessary gear with me but there are bolts aplenty. Enjoy.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Jun 24, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

climbed this again 6/23/17 in the morning. warm, but had a slight breeze. bishop topped out at 102 degrees that day...

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