REI Community
Three Fingered Jack

Select Route:
South Ridge Route T 

Three Fingered Jack Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,844'
Location: 44.4799, -121.8436 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,535
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Stephen Davis on Sep 28, 2008

34° | 28°

39° | 30°

44° | 31°

50° | 35°

52° | 37°

56° | 39°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Remember to get a Wilderness permit at the trailhead


Three Fingered Jack, named for its distinctive shape, is a Pleistocene volcano in the Cascade Range of Oregon. It is a deeply glaciated shield volcano and consists mainly of basaltic andesite lava.It was first climbed in 1923 by six boys from Bend, Oregon, or members of The Mazamas. Generally the rock quality is poor, although it is better closer to the summit. Jack isn't a very technical mountain, by the easiest route, but it offers stunning views of most of the cascade volcanoes to both the north and south. Usually once you break the treeline it is pretty windy, and most ascents are done from June through October.

Getting There 

From Hwy 20 from either Bend/Sisters or from Salem the turn off and approach to Jack is from the Pacific Crest Trail access parking lot that is located just off the hwy just east of Hoodoo ski area but before Santiam Pass signage. Don't forget to bring your Northwest Forest Pass to park in the lot.

Climbing Season

For the Oregon Volcanoes area.

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Three Fingered Jack

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Three Fingered Jack:
South Ridge Route   5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Three Fingered Jack

Featured Route For Three Fingered Jack
Rock Climbing Photo: The Jack

South Ridge Route 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13  Oregon : Oregon Volcanoes : Three Fingered Jack
Find the climbers trail off the PCT about 5 miles in, there is a very large cairn marking the climbers trail so don't jump the gun to get on the ridge to early! Follow the climbers trail uphill onto the ridge proper then traverse the ridge uphill towards the summit plug. The trail is easy to follow and you don't need or really want to rope up till the traverse about 250 vertical feet below the summit, at this point most will rope up for the very low 5th class traverse that has some good exposure...[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Photos of Three Fingered Jack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The technical pitch to the summit.
BETA PHOTO: The technical pitch to the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: On the approach
BETA PHOTO: On the approach

Comments on Three Fingered Jack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bennett
From: Southern California
Jul 8, 2011
The chimney guarding the summit felt like 5.6 R to me and was super loose the first 30 feet, but I was wearing mountain boots... sweet line, ton of snow from about 4500 up the south ridge.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About