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g. The Great Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Dean's List S 
Dean's List (arête variation) S,TR 
Open Book T 
Tales from the Crypt T,S,TR 
Three Buttresses (first pitch) T 
Three Buttresses (first pitch, variation 2) T,TR 

Three Buttresses (first pitch) 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Joe Walsh and party, late 1940s.
Page Views: 704
Submitted By: Larry S on Sep 1, 2011

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Frank on pitch 1 of Three Buttresses.


A blocky start leads to a left slanting crack capped by a roof which is bypassed on the right up to a ledge with a tree. The ledge is part of the cactus ledge but is so covered in Poison Ivy and Brush that you can't get across it. There are 2 more pitches, though they are rarely done.

This is the standard route. It traverses right as soon as a ledge can be reached on that side, by learning across and mantling onto it (or stepping wide if you're stretchier than I am). This traverse happens several moves below the roof, which is referred to in some guidebooks as "variation 1."


Just left around the buttress from Tales From the Crypt is a little crack system that slants a bit left.


Protects easily with some small cams and medium nuts. With up to #1 camalot and you can back up the tree too. Webbing and rings are usually present on the tree.

Photos of Three Buttresses (first pitch) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Three Buttress follows a left slanting crack/corne...
BETA PHOTO: Three Buttress follows a left slanting crack/corne...

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By Larry S
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Sep 1, 2011

The webbing/rap rings were replaced on in August 2011. The old webbing/rings were missing.

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