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Three Amigos Double Direct 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,065
Submitted By: Mark Maier on Nov 5, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Amigos Double Direct climbs the zig-zag crack, cro...

Description 

The double direct climbs the cracks on the two faces to the left of the Three Amigos flakes. Start up a zig-zaggy crack in the licheny face. At the top of the face cross the brushy ledge and climb the double cracks through a roof.

Location 

You encounter the Double Direct start on the trail just before Three Amigos. From the belay at the top you can walk back down on the trail.

Protection 

You can slot almost anything from finger to hand size in the cracks along most of the route. A new leader could practice here with practically any gear he or she has.


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By Fan Zhang
From: Washington, DC
Nov 2, 2016

As of 10/30/16, there were at least a couple loose blocks just before the bushy ledge halfway up the route.
By Jonah hoff
Apr 13, 2017

What do we use to lower?
there doesn't seem to be bolt anchors mentioned in the description. are there any trees to anchor or rap down from?
By Mark Maier
May 28, 2017

Last time I was there you used trees. Very few routes at Buzzard's have bolt anchors. You generally build your own at the top.

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