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Thrashin' Tony's Free Dinner 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Dan Briley, George Smith
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: DesertDan on Sep 20, 2015

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George Smith top roping on the start of Thrashin' ...

Description 

Climb the boulder problem start done by George a few years earlier (exits down left from the high end of the shallow ramp) and step up and right to the first bolt 30 or so feet off the ground. Medium quality brass nuts or Lowballs can be found to protect the move to the bolt. Two more bolts lead up through the first roof and the crux. Jog right as the roof is pulled and stand up to one more bolt. Climb up and left around the second roof finishing straight up on a seam with a sleeper 10a exit move 15' above the last bolt/worthwile protection. Variation: At the last bolt, climb up to the second roof and follow it out right, 5.10a, finishing on the top of Dinosaur Rib. This top out protects well with 1" and smaller cams.

Location 

On a seam just right of center on the Snake Eyes Wall, where the wall kicks up out of the wash.

Protection 

Four bolts, 1"cams to brass nuts. 3/4-1" cams can be placed above the first roof, before the fourth bolt.


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By DesertDan
From: Arvada, Co
Sep 20, 2015

We led this in the mid 90s but the climb got it's name and start as a boulder problem in the mid 80s.

Thrashin' Tony, a curious character that came out to Keyhole in those days who seemed to love being out in nature just as much as he loved to torture it. It was said of Tony that he could be found just about anywhere by following the trail of burned bushes.

At the end of a long day climbing at Keyhole, Tony heard George make the comment that he would have to attempt this climb another day when his fingertips weren't on fire. Tony could be pushy and began trying to get George to do the climb. When George continued to demure, Tony tried bribing with money, gas, beer, etc but it wasn't until Tony offered to buy George dinner at Railroad Pass on the way home to BC that George accepted the challenge. George completed the problem in only a couple tries but Thrashin' Tony disappeared on the way back and George never did get his free dinner.

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