This is an awesome line that ascends wonderful varnish chicken heads, jugs, and burnishes to the top of Island of the Sky in 3 short pitches. Definitely it is worth combining it with a route like Wills Rush (1st pitch) to get off the ground and have a multi-pitch outing.
To get to the start of the route, climb something like the 1st pitch of Wills Rush to reach Intersection Ledge. From the top of Wills Rush, look up and to the right to see an obvious 3-pin anchor, probably with webbing slung between the pins. To reach the anchor, ascend a short chimney and then work to the right across an easy slab, passing a fixed pin along the way. Officially this is the 1st pitch, but you might find to be so easy that it is hardly noticeable.
Pitch 2 - Once at the 3-pin anchor, head up on awesome varnish jugs to reach another chain anchor in 50 feet or so. You will pass 2 pins along the way.
Pitch 3 Continue up more varnish jugs for 80 feet, passing 6 pins to reach a 2 pin anchor atop a nice ledge at the top of the route. You will be almost at the top of the Island of the Sky at this point.
To get down, head north (climbers left) for 200 feet to reach a flat, sandy area that has some bushes in it. Turn back to the west and work you way down to a flat ledge. Look for a nice chain anchor on a north-facing wall.
Though it is only 115 feet back down to the Intersection Ledge, if you are using a single rope, there will be another anchor you can stop at about 90% of the way back down to Intersection Ledge. It is an easy down climb from this anchor to the ledge, but it may be better to stop and re-rig the rappel anyway, since the next rappel station is below Intersection Ledge, and you wont have do down-climb to the next anchors.
The next set of anchors is below Intersection Ledge, directly below from where you rappelled from the top. However, they are down inside a little chimney feature and can be hard to find unless you look down!
It is 115 feet from this set of anchors back down to the ledge at the top of the approach gully. There is another rappel station located about half way down, so you can split this up into 2 rappels if you only have a single rope.
The start of this route in on Intersection Ledge. It is easy to find from the top of Will's Rush 1st pitch. Look up and to the right to find a 3-pin anchor, which will probably have some webbing threaded between the pins. Enjoy!
Mostly quickly draws will be all you need, but take a few long slings for wrapping around varnish knobs and some larger stoppers for wedging between the plates of varnish, if you want to cut down on the run-out between the fixed gear.
BETA PHOTO: Thousand Pints of Lite as we pitched it out. P1 is...
Climber starting up P2. We easily combined P1 & P2...
By Brad Osborn
Oct 14, 2014
Am I reading correctly that this multi-pitch requires a trad climb?
By Garrett C
Jan 25, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Did this route on 1/24. If you choose to go up Wills Rush, you will need gear, but once you reach intersection ledge this route can be done with only quick draws. As of 1/24, the anchors were all pins with no webbing. At the start of pitch two, the pins are to the RIGHT and somewhat difficult to see. I mistakenly started climbing right above the anchor and ended up free-soloing the entire pitch before I could place pro close to the anchor. Last two pitches had incredible exposure, but this route must not be traveled much because many of the varnished holds were breaking on me. Also, the entire route was older pins. Anyways, 3 stars for the exposure!
By Don Gilman
From: St. George, Utah
Mar 12, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun route. Will's Rush, while easy, is ... stimulating, considering the dearth of options for pro. The chockstone on the first pitch is super sketchy. The second pitch requires an odd traverse out to the right to clip the pin. It would make much more sense to just climb straight up from the belay anchors. Clipping that first pin causes a little rope drag.The third pitch is adequately protected, and allows the climber to focus on the incredibly fun climbing. Just that joyous kind of climbing that makes you glad to be alive. The rappels are pretty straightforward. Overall a very rewarding climb.