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Thou Shalt Not Covet 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Anony Mouse
Page Views: 2,262
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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just before the crux of Thou Shalt Not Covet

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb what was the start of The Coveted (5.11b), up an easy slab to a few undercling moves (that can seem tough till you get it right), out to the right and up a short, shallow corner.... Clip the chains, but remember to do another move or two to the top of the cliff (they are the best moves on the route, I think)....
The anchors were left low, so the ropes run smoothly....

Not in the guidebook....

Location 

Just right of Student Loan (5.11b) and left of Mr. Popular....

Protection 

5 bolts to quick clips....


Photos of Thou Shalt Not Covet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: #2 Get the undercling and stand up!
BETA PHOTO: #2 Get the undercling and stand up!
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex on the moderate slab of Thou Shalt Not Covet ...
Alex on the moderate slab of Thou Shalt Not Covet ...
Rock Climbing Photo: #1 Crux-movin', butt-shootin' sequence.
BETA PHOTO: #1 Crux-movin', butt-shootin' sequence.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex getting in to the roofs...
Alex getting in to the roofs...

Comments on Thou Shalt Not Covet Add Comment
Show which comments
By S. Neoh
May 22, 2010

I agree with Mark's comment under Student Loan - The Coveted should be listed as a 'legit' route, with this one as a variation of the original.
By ward smith
Apr 27, 2014

Now 5 bolts. Due to people breaking their ankles falling onto the slab below, a bolt has been added at the top (stainless fixe glue-in) , so there is now no excuse not to get on it.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 13, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed this roof problem having no idea what route I was on (the 2009 guidebook descriptions in this area are wicked confusing). Thanks to the boys on guard at MP for clearing up the confusion!
By Russ Keane
Jul 6, 2017

Awesome climb! Cool start, and fun roof movement. Gets pumpy at the anchors. Stay solid! Clipping the final bolt is tricky, and very taxing of energy. The protection it provides is very important, though, regarding a fall from the anchor area. Some may choose to skip this final bolt, though, because getting to the anchor is easier without worrying about this bolt. In other words, it's placed in a weird spot that takes you off the easiest line to the anchor. You almost have to go up, struggle to clip into it, then come back down to where you were. Then you move toward the right side of the roof/corner where the anchor is accessed (not up and over the bolt you just clipped). Hope that makes sense. Certainly all of the above can be done in one smooth sequence, but it's awkward.

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