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Thor Peak

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South east couloir T 
Stemwinder, The T 

Thor Peak Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 12,300'
Location: 36.57404, -118.26141 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,491
Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Tomlinson on Dec 10, 2013
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Thor Peak, The Stem Winder, I, 5.4

Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>


The southeast face of Thor is strikingly beautiful and begs to be climbed. Seen from the hikers trail to Mt. Whitney it is hard not to trip over your feet as you stare at all the possible lines on this fetching mass.

Other than making a lasting impression in my mind and what I read in the RJ Secor High Sierra guide, I know nothing about this peak. I would be very curious to hear peoples impressions of the routes on this peak.

Routes here are mostly grade III and under, seems like a great place for an adventurous moderate, relatively close to the car. While others are continuing to trudge up to Whitney and Russell, you'd be roping up and likely have the peak to yourself.

Getting There 

Hike the Whitney trail until you see Thor. I don't know anything about where to leave the trail. From photos and memory, it does appear to be quite a slog to the base of the routes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 15.9 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Thor Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Thor Peak:
The Stemwinder   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Thor Peak

Featured Route For Thor Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemwinder photo overlay.  photo credit: rhyang / ...

The Stemwinder 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  California : High Sierra : ... : Thor Peak
An "old school" (1936!) route which winds its way up the right-side of the huge south face of Thor Peak.Traverse left on a ledge from the near the right-end of the south face to get to the start of the route. A 10' class 3-4 chimney must be overcome to get to P1. P1 is marked with a fixed piton and stopper right off the deck. Make the crux 5.4 chimney move and gain easier ground heading up and right. Many options exist between class 3 and easy 5th. Choose your own adventure. You are aiming for a...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Thor Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thor Peak, Principal Dihedral III, 5.8, A2, a Fred...
Thor Peak, Principal Dihedral III, 5.8, A2, a Fred...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thor Peak, southeast face
Thor Peak, southeast face

Comments on Thor Peak Add Comment
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By JP.8d
From: Menlo Park, CA
Sep 1, 2014
I've walked by this twice now en route to Whitney. Have scoured online, guidebooks, etc. and have found very little about routes on Thor Peak, save "Stemwinder". Does anyone have info on the striking crack directly up the orange patina in the center bowl of the formation? How about the steep dihedrals on left side of peak? This thing looks incredible. Any info appreciated. Thx
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Sep 7, 2014
JP.8d, I just looked into the Secor guide at the dihedrals. As of 2011 printing only the right of the two dihedrals has been climbed, South Crack, III, 5.9 sustained off-width and chimney (check the photo for more details). Two pitches go up left side of formation to the ledges, move right to the second crack and go up. I'd recommend the R.J. Secor guide as the best source I know of.

As for the center of the orange patina, you may be looking at Lucifer's Hammer, III, 5.10a, FA: Sept. 13, 1997 by Pat Brennan, Em Holland and Bruce Bindner.

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