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Tiger Cage
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
New Jersey Attitude T,TR 
This is Hard T 
This Pussy Eats You T 
Tiger Tiers T,S,TR 

This Pussy Eats You 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Greg Vernon, 8/86
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,356
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Dec 14, 2007  with updates from nelissam

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

The route is fairly straight forward. Simply ascend the crack (the direct boulder start is rated 5.10b) to where the crack splits into a "Y" shape which creates two parallel cracks (thus the routes' namesake!). Twenty feet above the split, make a short traverse to the left on a small horizontal crack. The two cracks can be stemmed and jammed (5.9) to the top of the climb. Or the left most crack can be jammed (.10a) to make the route more challenging. There are two anchor bolts at the top of the climb. Pro to 2". The upper section requires smaller gear (3/8" to 3/4")

Location 

When first approaching the Courtright area, locate a gravel pullout on the right side of Courtright Road (next to the PG&E access gate). At the top end of the gravel pullout, locate a small rock cairne that identifies the trail to the Tiger Cage/Tiger Wall area. Follow this trail around the right side of segmented and terraced rock formation. As the trail bends left, a wall on the left side appears. This is Tiger Cage. Continue uphill 100 yards further and locate a single crack, that eventually splits into two parallel crack 20 feet above the base. This is the start of 'This Pussy Eats You'.

Protection 

Essential Gear

+ Single 50 meter rope
+ A few slings for directionals
+ Pro to 2" (#1 Metolious TCU and several medium pieces... nuts work well too!)


Comments on This Pussy Eats You Add Comment
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By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Jun 26, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is one bolt at the top with no rappel ring. It is next to an awkward backward flaring crack that a #2 BD cam wants to walk out of. I used a red link cam (~BD #1) further down the crack to back up the bolt for a top anchor. Until another bolt is added for the anchor and rings or links installed, walk right 20' to the top of Tiger Tiers and rap from there off two bolts with quick-links.

A #1 Metolius (blue) cam or equivalent was a useful piece to have. Bring a couple 0.5 BD sized cams for the top.
By Nicola
Aug 8, 2016

I think this route should go under the "tiger cage" sector. Also, if you want to rap down, you can use the ring of Tiger Tiers
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Nov 15, 2016

Nicola -

As you can see from the page previous, this is indeed under the Tiger Cage section. And Tiger Tiers is on the Tiger Wall, not Tiger Cage area.