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This Monkey's Gone to Heaven 

Hueco: V7+ Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V7+ Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,270
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Dec 9, 2011

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This Monkey's Gone to Heaven.


Big moves on decent edges up a slightly overhanging wall. The landing is a bit scary!


As many crash pads and spotters as you can get.

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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 8, 2013
rating: V7+ 7A+

There's a few different variations for how to do this thing. The first is to use the lower (incut) undercling while keeping your feet low and sort of windmill-style deadpoint the high crimp - I think my left foot wound up in a smeared position when I did it this way (years ago). The second is to bump to the higher but worse undercling and rotate static to the crimp. Keep your feet low if you are real tall or use the higher feet if you are real short (in between folks like me are sort of forced to improvise a bit hence the dyno). I found I could only do it the first way but be warned - the deadpoint feels out of control and when you hit the crimp its possible you will rotate off in a weird way in the direction of the talus! I did it once and could never repeat it in later years ironically. It felt like a 1 in 100 deadpoint.

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