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This is Only a Test 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rob Mulligan & Troy Mayr, 1988
Page Views: 460
Submitted By: caughtinside on Apr 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: This is Only a Test (5.12), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

The one bolt variation, direct start to Cactus Flower. Find the Cactus flower line, with the initial crack off to your left.

Start on a heavily chalked undercling horizontal before popping up into the slopey pinch. Work up in the pod to join the standard Cactus flower.

The guidebook says the grade is .12a-.12d, height dependant. Reaching the slopey pinch is going to suck if you are a shorty.

Location 

10 feet to the right of the standard start of Cactus Flower.

Protection 

4 bolts. Supplemental gear possible for the top of the route which you probably won't need. maybe a 3 and a .75 camalot. Bolt anchor.


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By Randy
Apr 12, 2011

Did this many a year ago and found it near impossible (me being only 5'10" on a good day). Height dependent and in the higher 5.12 range for me.
By Mark J Gain
Oct 27, 2012

Fun start to a cool route, but being a little more on the taller side I found it into the lower grades, of .12's and no gimmy even with some height as the book mentions. I would not know what I would confirm it as, of course it does not matter much anyways but a fun variation.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 1, 2014

I'm 5'8". No go. Would love to see someone my height do this climb so I can steal their beta!
By Jeff constine
Dec 30, 2016

Did it onsite with Jim Bridwell on belay 1997.

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