REI Community
17 - This and That Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cramming T 
Said and Done T 
Scram S 
This and That T 
Tips T 
Walk, Don't Run (aka The Bouldering Arch) 
Whim T 

This and That 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Donini & Jim Bridwell - 1972
Page Views: 1,099
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Jan 25, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Starting up the sweet handstacks.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch one of this three pitch route is a stellar 80 ft. of high quality, clean cut, lieback offwidth. The crux of which is up high where the crack bulges and veers right(.10a). Although avoiding the pump is probably the real crux.

Location 

This climb is in the middle of This and That cliff. To the right and uphill from the big arch, or left and down from Cramming. Look for a short, right facing, dirty, 3rd class ramp/corner with a nice grassy ledge on top. A wonderful place to be an a sunny winter day! Look for the right facing four inch crack.

Rappel the route with one 60m rope from slings around a tree/bushes. Bring a leaver sling just in case.

If you've climbed the other pitches, please describe them in the comment thread below.

Protection 

Get through the last 15ft. of this climb with one finger size piece and an off-finger piece. The rest of this climb takes nothing but large cams. Bring at least three #4 camalots, two #5 friends, and a #6 friend. One tipped out #4 friend can be placed off the ground for piece of mind. The belay off the ledge also takes #4 camalots if you've got them, otherwise, count on the first piece of pro being the belay piece.


Photos of This and That Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Robin resting midway. Photo: Erick Davidson
Robin resting midway. Photo: Erick Davidson

Comments on This and That Add Comment
Show which comments
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 25, 2010

When I climbed this, it was evident that we did not bring enough large gear. So I climbed the first 10 - 20ft of the climb with two #4 camalots and one #4 camalot for the belay. Then down climbed and took the belay piece and the first piece out to be used further up on the climb which continually gets harder until the final bulge is pulled. The #6 friend goes in perfectly for the bulge. I think this is a good technique to use as most people are not going to bring up five #4 camalots. It makes you appreciate both of the Jims for doing this without cams at all!
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Jan 26, 2010

My gear was 2x#4 Friends, 2#4 Camalots, and 1 #5 Cam C4 ( barely fit- #5 friend would be better) Not sure how #6 will go
By Alexey
From: San Jose
Feb 24, 2014

climbed it recently again- felt very hard for 10a (I did not lay back tzo)
#4 camelots works better than #4 Friends
By Buddin
Mar 24, 2017

Just did this route the other day. Really good warm up. Even with water at the "crux" we felt is was a good 5.8+

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About