REI Community
Select Route:
Dark Territory T 
Thirteen Words for Choss. T 
Under Seige T 
White Stallion, The T 

Thirteen Words for Choss. 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 9/28/07.
New Route: Yes
Season: Autumn, when not closed or snowed in
Page Views: 371
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Choss, mank, friable, schmarm, pile, sand, soft, kitty litter, corn-flakes, junk, crap, etc...

    A route with some rock that looks too poor to climb, but is actually worse than that. I am not posting this to invite others to try the route- this is a warning.

    Years ago in an article on Red River Gorge, and Author said 'They say that the Eskimos have 15 different words for snow, because it is so central to their lives, and in Red River, there are 20 words for "pumped."
    You should be getting the picture by now. I think I thought of about 10 words for Choss on the way up this thing, and between I and my partner, the indecipherable muttering heard throughout the canyon could have been interpreted as us inventing a few more.

    Never before have I heard myself say on lead "Uh, look out, this is going to come down when I move, and I can't stop it... just watch me." I have a nice long scrape and cut now. On his turn, my partner followed and said that he had never been so scared while climbing on TR in his life.

    The route climbs the zig-zag finger cracks (5.8) to a ledge perhaps 4-5 meters up, then up some questionable holds, flexible flakes, expanding jams and dubious gear to the top out, to join the slab. Go up the slab for perhaps 8 meters to a rap station (rope on a huge in-cut horn), or to the nice summit and retreat back to the horn. Rap 70' to the ground.


    On the N.E. end of Shadowfax's lower, Eastern summit spire one can see a left-facing flake system that runs from the ground, where the rock is a good zig-zag finger crack, to the upper section of the wall through obviously loose flakes. This is "Thirteen Words For Choss."


    A set of stoppers and cams to 3".
    A few long slings.
    Steel nuts (figuratively).

    Comments on Thirteen Words for Choss. Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About