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Third Tier

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Crack Land 
Southwest Buttress 
Wall of the Dragon 
Wall of the Goddess 
West Gully 

Third Tier Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.99863, -105.41169 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note:...

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  • Description 

    The Third Tier of Avalon is high and remote; few climbers venture up here. But those that do will be rewarded with great views, and a wilder, "adventure climbing" feel away from the crowds down below.

    The first route up here was Black Tiger, established in 1989. However, most of the routes are fairly new. Richard Rossiter has been active up here recently, putting up a number of new routes in 2005 and 2006. Some of the new routes are sport routes, but some are trad crack climbs. Bring a full trad rack with hand, fist, and wider pro if you want to do the crack routes.

    Be prepared for some moss and lichen on many of these new routes, since the rock faces more to the north and the routes haven't seen much traffic. If you want to perform a community service, bring a wire brush along and help clean up the routes.

    A decent trail traverses the entire Third Tier, starting from the Southwest Buttress on the right, going all the way over to Crack Land on the left.

    The areas of the Third Tier, from R->L:

    Southwest Buttress - Called the Summit Pyramid in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook. The first area you get to on the Third Tier. A smooth wall on the right side of the Third Tier, home to The Solution (10c), Black Tiger (11c) and Jaguar (11c).

    Wall of the Goddess - Several hundred feet left of the Southwest Buttress. A short wall with two bolted anchors and several trad crack climbs: Isis (9+), Yoni (8), and Amrita (10c).

    West Gully - just beyond the Wall of the Goddess and up a gully to the right. Five new routes: Merlin's Enigma (11d), Charon's Boat (9), Knight of Swords (10c), Dragon Direct (9), and Sorcerer's Apprentice (8).

    Wall of the Dragon - the remote area above the West Gully. Two new sport routes: Dragon Fly (9) and Dragon Slayer (10b).

    Crack Land - starts just left of the West Gully. Mystery Ship (10c) is just beyond the gully. Farther to the left lie Ancient Light (10c), Ancient Fright (10c), and Resurrection (9). The latter route takes you to the summit of Avalon, a wild but peaceful place with superb views.

    New routes in Crack Land in 2006 include The Art of War (10c), Thus Us (9), The Enemy Within (9), War Horse (10d), Crack Love (10a), Crack Love II (9), Crack Love III (10c), Ghost Ship (10a), Ship of Fools (10b), Mystery Tour (9), and Blade (11a). The Art of War is a sport climb; all the others are trad crack climbs.

    Getting There 

    From the Wall of the Dead on the Second Tier, take a trail around to the right and up the hill. The trail meets the Third Tier at the right side, and cuts back left underneath the Southwest Buttress. The trail continues downstream, staying fairly level most of the way, all the way over to Crack Land.

    Continuing on the trail beyond Crack Land takes you to Wizard Rock.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.8 miles from here

    32 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',10],['5.10',15],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Third Tier

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Third Tier:
    Mystery Tour   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Crack Land
    Crack Love II   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Crack Land
    The Art Of War   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Crack Land
    Ancient Light   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Crack Land
    Dragon Slayer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Wall of the Dragon
    Blade   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Crack Land
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Third Tier

    Featured Route For Third Tier
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dragon Direct.  Start in the gully about 30' uphil...

    Dragon Direct 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : West Gully
    Look for 2 bolts up and right from the Knight of Swords. Make steep moves past the bolts, then cruise on gear to a 2-bolt ring anchor near the top. One may also continue to the beautiful ledge at the top of the ramp that runs along the Wall of the Dragon. I had a sling with a good locking carabiner around a tree here so you could rappel back into the gully, but some assohole ripped it off. I thought this was Avalon in Boulder Canyon, but maybe it's just another Third World count...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Third Tier Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Avalon Upper Wall Routes.  Photo taken from Upper ...
    BETA PHOTO: Avalon Upper Wall Routes. Photo taken from Upper ...

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