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Third Tier

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Crack Land 
Southwest Buttress 
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Third Tier Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.99863, -105.41169 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features. Note:...

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The Third Tier of Avalon is high and remote; few climbers venture up here. But those that do will be rewarded with great views, and a wilder, "adventure climbing" feel away from the crowds down below.

The first route up here was Black Tiger, established in 1989. However, most of the routes are fairly new. Richard Rossiter has been active up here recently, putting up a number of new routes in 2005 and 2006. Some of the new routes are sport routes, but some are trad crack climbs. Bring a full trad rack with hand, fist, and wider pro if you want to do the crack routes.

Be prepared for some moss and lichen on many of these new routes, since the rock faces more to the north and the routes haven't seen much traffic. If you want to perform a community service, bring a wire brush along and help clean up the routes.

A decent trail traverses the entire Third Tier, starting from the Southwest Buttress on the right, going all the way over to Crack Land on the left.

The areas of the Third Tier, from R->L:

Southwest Buttress - Called the Summit Pyramid in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook. The first area you get to on the Third Tier. A smooth wall on the right side of the Third Tier, home to The Solution (10c), Black Tiger (11c) and Jaguar (11c).

Wall of the Goddess - Several hundred feet left of the Southwest Buttress. A short wall with two bolted anchors and several trad crack climbs: Isis (9+), Yoni (8), and Amrita (10c).

West Gully - just beyond the Wall of the Goddess and up a gully to the right. Five new routes: Merlin's Enigma (11d), Charon's Boat (9), Knight of Swords (10c), Dragon Direct (9), and Sorcerer's Apprentice (8).

Wall of the Dragon - the remote area above the West Gully. Two new sport routes: Dragon Fly (9) and Dragon Slayer (10b).

Crack Land - starts just left of the West Gully. Mystery Ship (10c) is just beyond the gully. Farther to the left lie Ancient Light (10c), Ancient Fright (10c), and Resurrection (9). The latter route takes you to the summit of Avalon, a wild but peaceful place with superb views.

New routes in Crack Land in 2006 include The Art of War (10c), Thus Us (9), The Enemy Within (9), War Horse (10d), Crack Love (10a), Crack Love II (9), Crack Love III (10c), Ghost Ship (10a), Ship of Fools (10b), Mystery Tour (9), and Blade (11a). The Art of War is a sport climb; all the others are trad crack climbs.

Getting There 

From the Wall of the Dead on the Second Tier, take a trail around to the right and up the hill. The trail meets the Third Tier at the right side, and cuts back left underneath the Southwest Buttress. The trail continues downstream, staying fairly level most of the way, all the way over to Crack Land.

Continuing on the trail beyond Crack Land takes you to Wizard Rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Third Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Third Tier:
Mystery Tour   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Crack Land
Crack Love II   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Crack Land
Crack Love   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Crack Land
The Art Of War   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Crack Land
Dragon Slayer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Wall of the Dragon
Ancient Light   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Crack Land
Knight of Swords   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   West Gully
Blade   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Crack Land
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Third Tier

Featured Route For Third Tier
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Tiger and Jaguar, Avalon Southwest Buttress

Jaguar 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : Southwest Buttress
This route is located on the Third Tier of Avalon on the Summit Pyramid (Southwest Buttress). Find two bolts on a smooth face at the base of the rock. Climb (mantle) past the bolts and climb up to the first bolt of Black Tiger. Place small gear to reach the bolt. Clip the bolt and move right along the crack placing gear to a bolt at the base of the arete. Follow a line of bolts up the steep arete on bullet-proof rock to a two bolt anchor. Great climb in a great position high above Boulder Creek....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Third Tier Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Avalon Upper Wall Routes.  Photo taken from Upper ...
BETA PHOTO: Avalon Upper Wall Routes. Photo taken from Upper ...

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